Given the ritualised and formal nature of Japanese culture,
it’s little wonder that in Japan, even the simple cup of tea has an entire
ceremony in its honour.
Through the influences of Zen Buddhism, the commonplace
practice of tea drinking has been moulded into a spiritual custom emphasising
calmness, contemplation, mental discipline and respect for others. Chanoyu (tea ceremony or ‘Way of Tea’ as it is often known) follows a series
of aesthetically crafted steps, each laden with deeper meaning and significance
- far more complex than dumping some tea powder in a cup with hot water. Every movement of the hand, flick of
the wrist, turn of the fingers is beautifully designed to represent
tranquillity, respect, harmony and purity. It is a stunningly complex procedure
reflecting the values of this ancient culture… and it is fascinating to watch.
While in Tokyo, Simon and I attended a tea ceremony at the Andon Ryokan - an award winning architectural masterpiece and hotel in Taiko-ku near Ueno and Asakusa. The Andon Ryokan holds a small tea
ceremony three times a month instructed by Mr. Soyu Maruyama, master of the Soan tea style for 40 years, where participants first
observe the correct process of preparing matcha (green powdered tea) before trying their own hand at
the art.
In addition to a tricky method of preparation, drinking the
tea is not a straightforward matter – guests in a tea ceremony must follow a
series of actions prior to, during and after their tea drinking. Resting the Chawan (tea cup) on the palm of their left hand while
supporting it with the right, the guest turns the cup twice in a clockwise
direction before placing it to their left and asking their neighbour permission
to drink. Once permission is
granted, the guest takes one sip and compliments the host on the tea’s fine
taste. The guest then takes
another sip and then finishes the cup with a further noisy slurp to indicate
satisfaction, before wiping the rim of the cup, rotating it back two turns
anticlockwise and placing it down with their right hand.
As Mr. Maruyama prepared the super-strength bitter green tea
for the 6 foreigners in our gathering, we clumsily bumbled our way through the
formalities of the occasion; accidentally using the wrong hand to pick up the
cup, turning it more or fewer times than is required and stifling giggles at
each others slurps, whisking incorrectly, adding too much water and so on, we
quickly realised the mental discipline and attention to process that is
required of this ceremony. The
lovely Mr. Maruyama was as patient as ever with us – his philosophy is that
anyone, anywhere at anytime can learn the Way of Tea and he is happy to teach
those who wish to learn.
At the end of the ceremony Mr. Maruyama made a beeline for
the coffee machine and gulped down two cups in rapid succession, “Ah. I like coffee”, said the tea master
with a smile.
Photos
