I`ve just completed a hike to the top of Volcan Tajamulco which is the highest point in Central America at 4222m. I`d been talking about doing the hike with two of my Cuates, Mario and Marvin, for over a month. The basic idea had been to do the trek over a month ago but for various reasons (general lack of organisation being the principal one) we never quite got around to it.
We`d decided to make it a luxury trek following my "heuvos and frijoles" experience between Nebaj and Todos Santos. Preparations included buying plenty of meat to do a barbecue halfway up the volcano and plenty of guaro (alcohol). All seemed to be going quite well until Marvin informed us that his wife wanted to come with his two year old daughter. After a few minutes of contemplation I worked out that it probably wasn`t such a bad thing as at least we wouldn`t have the weight of all the beforementioned alcohol in our backpacks.
Saturday 17th Jan
We reach the start of the volcano at 1.30pm, over 2 1/2 hours later than expected. This is largely due to Marvin`s wife spending too many hours baboseando (wasting time) in the morning. Ordinarily, this wouldn`t be a problem but when someone has to carry a 2.5 year old kid up a volcano it is obviously less than ideal. We start the ascent up the volcano, which isn`t actually particularly steep. After about 45mins of carrying La Jorgi it becomes apparent that Marvin`s daughter won`t be making it to the top after all. Obviously, this was apparent to me before we even left Xela but I resist the urge to to say "I told you so". It is extremely cloudy and windy and doubts begin to surface about us actually seeing anything upon reaching the top.
Following much deliberation we decide to set up camp about 3hrs from the summit to avoid La Jorgi freezing to death. It is decided that those capable of reaching the top will get up at 3am and hike to the top in time for sunrise. This inadvertently turns out to be a very wise decision as hiking to near the summit to camp in the Saturday wind and clouds would have been pretty difficult.
After setting up camp it is time to start a fire and have our barbecue. We diligently collect the firewood etc and all is ready for the feast. I open my rucksack to find the marinate for the meat has leaked in my rucksack. I ask Marvin where the grill is to put the meat and he responds with the "I thought you were bringing it look". After it becomes apparent that nobody has actually brought the grill we come up with the cunning idea of using a knife to put a hole in the meat and using a twig to barbecue it in true Bear Grylls style. The food turns out quite well and we eventually manage to find the Don Simon cheapo wine to heat and mix with sugar.
Sunday 18th
Following a night of zero sleep due to the sub artic temperatures (I exaggerate here) I muster the mental fortitude to start hiking at 3am. The clouds have actually parted a bit and there is no real need for a torch as the moon and stars are shining brightly. At 5am Marvin mentions something about him having nausea - given he´s climbed the volcano 40 times before I find this surprising but manage to feign some sympathy for him. We all know that he`s feeling lazy and can´t be bothered to climb to the very top. He shows us the direction to reach the top and mentions that we can follow some other trekking groups if worst come to worst.
It turns out to be quite easy to reach the top of Central America after all the fuss and we watch the sunrise. It is the most impressive sunrise and one of the most impressive views that I have witnessed. You are above the clouds, the sky is different shades of orange, the chain of Guatemalan volcanoes is in the background (I can see both Volcan de Fuego and Satiaguito erupting) and you can see into Mexico as far as the pacific ocean. The scenerity of being on top of Central America is interrupted when I realise that my gloves are absolutely useless and I quite possibly have frostbite. Apparently, according to the "expert" guides who are also around it is not actually as cold as normal as the wind isn´t that strong.
On our way down we find Marvin sleeping by a fire that someone else has started. Apparently he is feeling much better which doesn`t surprise anyone and we make our way back to camp to pick up his wife and daughter. The trek down the volcano is fairly quick apart from the irritation of some dodgy looking people accosting us telling us not to take photos of their pick up.
