Rocked and rolled...thats what happened to me on the massive olas hoy a la playa (on the waves today at the beach). Ahcarumba! Yesterday, with lots of energia and spunk I hit the big waves(big to me, medium to small to all the experienced surfers) and conquered. They were the biggest i had seen since we arrived, the first few days the waves were so small that you could barely ride them, or perhaps the ride was barely worth all that paddling out there! But it was good practice for the Amy's and I was muy confident, oh course ending my cocky surfing day on my ass falling into the reef (life always has it's way of letting you know that you are never really in control)
Anyway, so today we get out there and the waves are even bigger then yesterday...so I paddle out get in position, straight chilln on my board, i get a quick glimps of Amies panick strickn face and then i turn my head just in time to be collbered by a huge, 2 meters or so, wave. Knocked, rocked, rolled, spun and pushed around to the extent that i loose one of my water shoes and paddle desperately to get to my board as well as find my missing shoe...just in time to get beaten down by another huge wave. Amie on the other hand, jumped on her board in time for the first wave and surfed safely away. Me? After finding my shoe, and the thought of sea urchins sharp prickly stingers in my foot faded away another wave crashing on, making for a wonderful opprotunity for me to taste the excusively salty atlantic water. By the time i escaped the grasp of the harsh sea I needed time to, basically, breath. Getting tossed around by huge waves is definitely a work out, trying not to hit the board or any sharp reef parts.
After that, my energy was zapped and i went out for a couple more waves then retired my broken little spirit and beat up body take siesta and eat lunch.
so my post yesterday would have said...I learned to Surf, b/c yesterday i rocked it and had so much fun. Today I got rocked and feel less the confident about my surfing skills. But good to know the fury and power of the ocean and get reminded of my place as an unexperienced surfer.
So, that's today. We now have plans to go visit climb, repall, jump, swim and slide down 27 waterfalls outside of town for saturdays adventure. Tomorrow, we are going with a friend to visit some waterfalls and beaches around the area. And weds we made plans to go on a down hill mountain biking tour to see the country side. Amie leaves next weekend then back to my old tricks of wondering the country side alone.
might hike pico duarte, the highest pike in the caribbean, next weekend with some kids from the dream project. But we shall see.
So that is my life in words. estoy muy consado. didn't sleep well last night, chills then mosquitos bitting my face. nap time quizas? love and miss you all
Amelie
