In Canada, why can’t we; just get along with everyone on the road, have food stands on both sides on the same sidewalk, drive in an all-day traffic jam without losing our temper, respectfully squeeze in between cars during traffic, hustle a tourist for a few bucks, use any sort of transportation like scooters, motorcycles, cars, tuk tuks, vans as taxis, pick our nose in public, smile generously to visitors trying to speak our language, fit in x-small clothes? Because that’s the THAI way of doing things. There are probably other places like India or China where they do things like the Thais but right now I am simply fascinated with the Thai people in Bangkok. Nothing is impossible here.
Traffic – It’s incredible how in a heavy traffic that happens during all hour of the day, a single and gentle honk from the bus driver could say; “hey you over there on the pink scooter with the blue helmet, heads up I’m going to pass you on your right.” or that same honking could have meant “lady pushing the food cart in front of me, I waited long enough so please let me pass you because you’re in my lane.” This followed by a thank-you sound of the horn. Honking here can mean so many different things and it is done in the most gentle and respectful way. That is how they communicate when driving in the crazily noisy environment (to the North American standard) and everybody is always aware whether the last honk was directed at them or not and why. It’s so fascinating. I took the bus with Gen and our bus trip lasted one hour. I was trying to figure out how it is possible to navigate in a bumper to bumper traffic jam when scooters squeeze themselves between cars, busses and between lanes without any hesitation whenever it's possible and no one loses their temper, life goes on as if nothing had happened. I was not able to come up with an answer. Maybe they teach that in driving school or perhaps it is simply driving the Thai way. It’s funny how at the red light all the scooters and motorcycle are always in front of the line. They cut thru long queues of cars by going in the opposite lane, by zigzagging between cars or by driving on the sidewalk to get in front of the line. To have a better image of the scene of a red light in Bangkok, imagine filling up a glass jar of rocks, these are your larger cars and buses. Now top up your jar with sand, this is your scooters and motorcycles. The sand ends up at the bottom and fills up any gaps between rocks.
Everything is for sale – We also walk a lot in this 30 degrees humid weather. You can always spot the tourist in a crowd; the tourist is the heavy sweater. The local feel the heat as much but barely break one pearl of sweat all the same. Sometimes when we walk, we feel like we’re boxed in because both sides of the sidewalk have street vendors and every centimetre must be optimized because it is an opportunity to make a business. These guys sell just about anything. I imagine I could possibly find 50 items for each letter of the alphabet they have for sale in the streets. Everything could be a sale for them: a walkman, a cowboy hat, a flying squirrel, a live kitty in a dress, “real” Ray Bans shades, a big Buddha, a medium Buddha, a small Buddha, fresh flowers, deep-fried anything, seasoned fresh fruit, etc. Everything is the same, but different :) That’s a famous line around here: “It’s same same, but different.” i.e. don’t buy from the other guy, mine is the same but better (different). One guy had paintings he wanted to sell me. He had a 1500 Baht (the local currency) price tag on it but he was willing to let me have it for 200 and I haven’t even said anything yet. Today, I saw that same piece for 45 Baht at the market. Hustling and bargaining is part of any sales. It’s not mean or personal it’s just business; anything for a buck. If you have a moped, you automatically can become a taxi driver and make money around here. You have a bicycle? Sure why not just add two benches in front and start selling yourself :)
The locals – Picking your nose in public is ok, after all the rotten egg smell in Rotorua, New Zealand allows people to fart freely in public so why wouldn’t the Thai get their own privilege as well :) We think the nose picking is actually due to the dust and smoke in the air. Breathing can be a little bit difficult after walking for a few hours in the streets of Bangkok. I needed to cover my mouth with a mask at one point (picture). Thailand is the land of the smiles. We expected to see everyone smiling all the time but that was not the case. But the minute they see you genuinely trying to speak their language, you will see that ear to ear welcoming smile you were looking for.
We’re definitely having a lot of fun in Bangkok. We were a little bit apprehensive about coming here because of the forewarnings but really, it’s really safe and pleasant here (knock on wood). The staff at the first hostel we stayed at was just the friendliest bunch of people we’ve met. I strongly recommend the Udee Guest House in Bangkok. It’s way out of the touristy downtown core and it’s more expensive, but the trade off is awesome. We roam the streets where locals go, we eat the food the same way they like it and this is priceless. We are able to fully immerse in the daily lifestyle of a Thai and we love it.
I learned how to say one very important phrase: mai phet! (not spicy!) The first few days we ate at the food court, it was fine. Then I started feeling confident about trying something on the menu that didn’t have an English translation... Oh my god I almost shat my pants. The first time was super spicy and I must have sweated 5 lbs worth of fluid. The second time I tried something else and it was so hot I thought I was going to pass out, literally. Dave, you would have loved it.
We made a really pleasant acquaintance at the hostel, Maryse. She is travelling on her own and had been to Cambodia and Vietnam where we’re going next. She was going to head to Australia and NZ... so we exchanged valuable travel tips. Maryse is super nice to travel with, we’re glad we met her. Tomorrow, Feb 14, we’re all going to Chinatown for the Chinese New Year celebration. This is going to be amazing. Having visited the Chinatown earlier this week, we are expecting a huge turnout for the celebration. The Prince is making an appearance... Happy New Year to all the Asian folks at home. I wish you the usual happiness, prosperity and luck :) If you’re not Asian, well happy Valentine’s Day :) Take care guys!
