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running away Traveling south east asia, china, australia, new zealand and america. wherever the mood takes me!

luang prabang

LAOS | Saturday, 27 December 2008 | Views [675]

me with my santa hat at the lao lao garden

me with my santa hat at the lao lao garden

the next morning, we were up early to see about getting the boat down to luang prabang. Cause if we couldn't do that we would be heading down by bus instead. There ended up being enough people to get a boat there but we paid a little bit more as they were going to stop at a Buddha cave on the way. We forgot to bring any food with us on the boat and it was to take 7 hours to get there. We were hoping on the way that we would be stopping somewhere where we could pick up something to eat and We did stop but as some beach along the way were there was nothing there but us and the beach and the boat.

We knew when we arrived back onto the mekong, as the water got all muddy and dirty looking. And not to long afterward we stopped at the pakou caves, which are famous for the thousands of Buddhas being kept there. There wasn't really anything to them and after seen a lot of caves and pagodas already, I could have done without them. The cave I fell in was even better.

When we arrived to luang prabang it was just before sunset again. Some how we never seem to be able to arrive earlier any where. We were starving also as we only had breakfast. We stopped at a couple of places to see about sleeping there but they were too expensive. We were right in the town so we thought if we headed out a bit we might find something better. But we needed to stop somewhere first and eat before we starved to death.

After dinner we wandered around, heading somewhere where we thought would be cheaper. But ended up being really expensive, like asking 40 dollars for a room a night. Crazy!

We ended up finding somewhere that wasn't too bad and I got some money off as I was on my own and was staying for 4 nights. Also we got free coffee and fruit and stuff in the morning so I wasn't going to paying for breakfast. I was just going to make sure I got enough in the morning. Anyway I was finding out that I couldn't eat 3 big meals a day. I wasn't used to it. If I had a big breakfast and lunch I found I wasn't eating all of my dinner.

I left karline and gias at the hotel and spent the evening on the internet, catching up as I had been off it for some time. I had something small to eat on my own and headed to bed. The next morning I met gias and karline at breakfast. They weren't planning on much for the day. It was Christmas eve. I couldn't believe it. It didn't feel like Christmas at all. I left them as they were going to wander around. I wanted to find a bike and cycle around. I went to one place and asked for a bike. I asked if there was a discount if I kept the bike for 4 days. Instead the price went up. I wasn't expecting that. They said cause I would have it longer it was more. So I left there and went to the next place. This time I got a discount and got my bike. I cycled around the main part of luang prabang. It was really nice. Loads of wats, but I wasn't really looking to see more wats. I found the post office and popped into have a look as I needed to send a box home full of souvenirs that I had bought since Cambodia. It would be good to have a lighter bag again for once.

In the post office I ran into gias and karline. They were checking out the price of postage also. I know luang prabang isn't that big but it was funny to run into them there. They were heading off shopping so I went off on my bike back towards a sign I saw earlier saying bamboo bridge. I was hoping I would find somewhere on the other side to go and have lunch. I wanted to lock my bike to something, but there didn't seem to be anything around to lock it to. I was going to try and lock it to a tree but my lock wasn't big enough. I then saw that another bike was locked to a sign post and I went to see if I could fit mine there also. I was trying to manoeuvre my bike into place when a girl came over and said that the bike there was hers and was wondering if leaving the bikes locked there would be safe. I said I didn't think that anything would happen to them but she didn't seem to be too convinced. She even re-locked her bike to the post just to make sure it was secure.

There wasn't much more I could do to make it any more secure and I said the same to the girl there. I found out her name was sima and she was from Melbourne. I seem to be meeting quite a few people from Melbourne. She was there with a friend also, but she didn't have a bike and had walked ahead already. I met her friend dhana coming back towards us as I think sima had taking sometime in locking her bike and dhana was wondering what happened to her. But we finally made it to the bridge and it was really made from bamboo. But we had to pay to get across it, as it was a private bridge. So we paid the fee and I was the first to go across. It was loads of fun. As it was made from bamboo it was really bouncy and I ended up almost jumping across. Well bouncing anyway. Dhana and sima weren't to trusting of the bridge so they left me off bouncing across on my own.

When we got to the other side, we noticed a group of boys playing in the water, we waved towards them and they called us down. But I wasn't planning on getting wet. Sima thought it looked like fun and decided to head down. Dhana and I both didn't want to stand in the sun so we wandered over to this sheltered stand that was out on the edge between two rivers. I was starving so I got myself a drink and some munchies. I was hoping there was going to be a little restaurant there so I could eat. I guess I was going to have to head back and find something instead. I sat there chatting with dhana, while sima was off playing with the kids down by the water. We could hear the screams and yells from where we were sitting. Dhana was from Singapore and since I was going to be spending a couple of nights there before I headed to china, I asked her for her opinion on what was good to do in Singapore. She was saying it depended on what I like to do. Shopping? I said no, couldn't afford it. Eating? I said that sounded good. She said that Singaporeans were good and shopping and eating and you could get any food you wanted there. She also said that we should swap E.-mails and maybe I could meet up with her when I got there. I was all excited, it would be great to met someone that I knew already.

Sima turned up all hot and bothered from playing around with the kids. And after a bit of rest we all started to head back towards the bridge. On the way, we noticed that there seemed to be people appearing from over this ridge and people disappearing over it also. Our curiosity got the better of us and we decided to head up over it to see what was there. There ended up being a village there. Well a craft village exactly. We wandered around it and wandered up to a wat, that was closed. Talked to a monk and went looking for some food as I wasn't the only one who was hungry. We found a local food stall, where there wasn't much English spoken so we ended up pointing to another customers dinner and sima tried to get across that hers was to be vegetarian. Well she did a good job as hers ended up veggie. I got the normal without knowing what kind meat was in it. It turn out not to bad and at least it was enough to keep us going. Afterwards sima bought some silk for her friend and dhana and I ended up getting traditional skirts made to fit. And they were to bring it to our hotel the next morning when it was ready. As we both were at different hotels, we gave dhanas hotel as I didn't know the name of mine and I would go to their hotel the next morning to pick it up.

After that we headed back over the bridge and found out that our bikes were still there. Sima told me later that she was really afraid to leave the bike locked there and after I turned away when I locked the bike, she even shook the post to make sure it was study enough so it couldn't be lifted out and our bikes stolen. I definitely wasn't that worried. One thing I noticed in Asia and especially Laos, was that there wasn't much theft, but then again I could have just been lucky.

Sima and dhana were going to walk/ cycle around the town and asked did I want to join them. It sounded great I had no other plans other than to meet up with gias and karline later for dinner. So we wandered around the town stopping into a couple wats on the way. Well we stopped at one and had to pay to get in so we decided not to do that. Another one had a big standing Buddha that we looked at (not as big as the one in Bangkok) but we also got to speak to some young monks and sima really seemed to be excited about that.

We can across what I thought was a library, and I wanted to go in to have a look but it turned out to be a little gallery showing etchings of Laos people back in the 1800s. It was actually really interesting and my first exhibit since travelling. Now I have seen a lot of art, most of it ancient and religious. But not really any exhibits.

From there we were heading to the river to a cafe to stop and rest but along the way, we got distracted by a shop were dhana and sima both bought something. When we were leaving the shop, sima and I thought dhana was behind us but she had disappeared. We cycled back to find her back in the shop. She thought she had left her glasses behind but they were actually on top of her head. Ha ha been there done that.

Sima ended up talking to some local people and swapping E.-mails. She invited the girl to come with us, as at this stage it was getting late and we wanted to go to the top of mount phu si to see the sunset. And yes if you pronounce it right it does sound dirty. Phu si. (pussy) ha ha.

We made it to mount phu si and climb up all the stairs, only half way were we had to pay to get to the top. Dhanas ankle was giving her trouble as she hurt it before and I had noticed she had been limping all day. So she decided that she wouldn't climb all the steps to the top. So it was just me and sima and the local Laos girl. It had how many steps writing that we were suppose to walk up to get to the top but I forgot how many and I never did end up counting them to see if it was right. I was out of breath too much.

When we got to the top, there were a lot of people there already. We sat down to wait for the sun to get further down the sky. I went to try and get a better view in the crowd of people. I found a pretty good spot but I had to hunch down every now and again to see past a tree that was in the way. But I was more fascinated in the crowd of people who had come up to see the sunset. What made us all want to see a sunset? I'm sure like me, they had all seen countless sunset before. So when they all had their cameras up to take a picture of the sunset, I was taking a picture of them instead. Ha ha.

While I was up there, I started talking to a girl from Holland, Hilda. I told her I was travelling with a dutch couple. She was wondering did I know of anything going on that evening for Christmas eve. I mentioned what sima and dhana and I had discussed earlier which was to meet at a bar later called the Lao Lao garden. So I told her to come along, more the merrier.

I lost sima up at the top of the mountain but I headed back down to our bikes as she would have to wait for me as our bikes were locked together. I found sima and dhana down at the bikes. Dhana was heading off to go shopping, so sima and I cycled to their hotel so I knew where to head to in the morning to collect my skirt.

So I headed back to my hotel to get a shower before I had to meet gias and karline.

I met them in the hotel and we headed out to the street market to eat dinner. Afterwards we walked along the night market to look at all the wears for sell. I got so excited cause I finally found my Santa hat. I was looking for one since we arrive to luang prabang. I invited gias and karline to the Lao Lao garden also for drinks that evening. I had arranged to met Hilda there and the guys weren't ready to go there yet so I headed off before them and said I would meet them there.

I found sima there, sitting around a bonfire, it almost wasn't cold enough for it but it was really nice to sit in front of it even if it ended up making our skin red from the heat. Hilda found me there and she had brought along these Czech guys that she had meet before. I found out that Hilda and these two guys where all in muang ngoi at the same time as us. It was funny that we hadn't run into each other before that.

Hilda had ordered a burger to eat there and when it arrived Jeff said that it wasn't a very Christmassy dinner that she was having. Then he went on to say it was a protestant dinner. And that they had a real catholic dinner to eat that night for christmas. I have to say I'm not a very religious person at the best of times and I hate for people to predice against someone because of their religion. and I don't think that was what he was trying to get at but it still bothered me. So I just had to ask. “so what is a real catholic christmas dinner then?” and he goes “fish of course”. I started laughing and I said no it isn't. I said I came from Ireland where is it mostly a catholic country and most people would have turkey for dinner. And he goes that a protestant dinner. Ha ha I said no it isn't. I asked him why he thought fish was. And he said that fish is spoken of in the bible and during jesus life. I went on to say yeah but its not talked about at his birth. Anyway we finally found out, that for him fish for Christmas dinner was special as I guess they come from a land locked country and don't get to eat fish as much as I guess we do as we live on a island. I just hope he doesn't go off talking about catholic and protestant dinners again.

Anyway it turned out to be a great night. Gias and karline showed up and met Hilda. I found dhana and got introduced to another Singaporean called joey and got a picture taken with Santa Claus.

I was sitting in front of the fire later when I guy tapped me on the shoulder and asked how the fire was. I went to reply really hot and when I turned around, it was a guy I had met down in paske about 2 and half weeks before. Such a small world. We were staying at the same hostel before I left to go to the islands and we chatted briefly. He didn't even remember who I was. Which is fine. I'm good with remembering faces but names forget it. So if I don't remember your name, please forgive me. Anyway I found out his name was Luke and he had spent the last 2 weeks hitching his way up through Laos. Now there is a brave, or stupid man. So between chatting with everyone, it turned out to be a great Christmas eve night.

The next day, I was a little worse for wear after drinking, quite a few Lao Lao drinks. Great thing about it like the other rice drinks I have tasted it doesn't give you a hangover, other than you tend to be pretty tired the next day. I woke up just before 9 and cycled down to sima and dhanas place to see the lady when she arrived with my skirt. So here I was on Christmas day. Hanging outside a hotel waiting for a skirt I had made. And there was no sign. I was too tired for this crap. So I left a message at their hotel to say I was there and left again and that I would call around later and give money for the skirt.

I was wearing my Santa hat all day, well it was Christmas after all. But I seemed to be the only one with one on. So I was getting funny looks and smiles off people all day. Some crazy girl going around with a Santa hat on. I was told later that there were other people going around with it on too. But I didn't see any of them. So as far as I knew I was the only one. Where was the Christmas spirit?

From the couchsurfing website, there was suppose to be a get together meeting for Christmas, where we were to meet and hang out on the beach for the day and have a bonfire that Christmas night on the beach. The part I was most excited about was having a bonfire on the beach. And I told everyone the night before about it. I wasn't sure where we were suppose to have it so I said I would let everyone know when I did. I was to meet the organiser at noon and go to the beach from there. When I showed up and introduced myself, it ended up just being me and her. No else showed up from couchsurfing. So it turned out to be a bit of a shambles as it wasn't very well organized.

Luke ended showing up but only cause I told him about it the night before and he brought a guy with him. Ally from England. Luke was wearing his Santa hat also from the night before, so at least there was two of us, getting stares and smiles from everyone.

We decided to head for breakfast/lunch as none of us had eaten yet and while we ate we tried to figure out what we were going to do. The day was also a bit shitty as the sky was all cloudy and not as nice as it was the day before where the sun was splitting the rocks. So we forgo the beach party, especially after meeting the organiser, I found out that we couldn't have our bonfire on the beach after all as it wasn't allowed.

I found out that there was a bowling alley, so it changed to Christmas bowling instead. So we were to meet at the Lao Lao garden for drinks again and then head to the bowling alley after. Sounded good to me. Luke, ally and I headed off then. We were all going to head for the internet, and since we were all heading in the same direction, we said we would go together. ally and Luke headed to their hotels first to pick up some stuff and I had to head to to sima and dhanas guesthouse to see if my skirt had arrived. I said I would meet them up on the road in 10 mins.

Sima and dhana were there and my skirt had arrived. I tried it on and it looked great. I paid dhana for it, told them the bonfire was canceled but Christmas bowling was on and maybe I would see them later at the Lao Lao beer garden.

I met ally back on the road but there was no sign of Luke I got tired of waiting for him so I persuaded ally to start walking back with me towards the internet. Luke caught up to us half way there saying that we were walking so slow. It not like we were in a hurry or anything. Unfortunately the electricity seemed to be out, so we had no idea what to do then. Ally had a book he wanted to swap, so we headed to the bookshop and had a look around there. When we were done we were trying to figure out what we were going to do, but luckily we noticed that the electricity had come back on so we headed back towards the internet.

After the internet, we were thinking of food and we happen to be passing a bar that had a deal for a burger and beer for a good price. I don't drink beer but I thought one of the lads could have my beer. The place was empty except for us so we were able to play a game of pool. I was going to play the winner but Luke said he had a game for 3 players, where we all had 4 balls each and we had to knock the others balls in the pockets and if we potted the white, the others could take a ball of theirs that had been put in. it was a good game for 3 people and it could have gone on forever as none of us were really any good. In the end I won. Ha ha boys suck girls rule. Ha ha.

After that we parted ways. I wanted a nap and a shower. We arranged to meet each other at the bar later.

I was the first to arrive at the bar. So I sat down by the bonfire and ordered a drink and spring rolls. I was thinking if no one had come by the time I was finished eating I would head again. As I didn't want to be sitting there on my own. But I ended up talking to this kiwi couple that were sitting beside me. And I have to say they were a bit mad. Will the guy was anyway. But fun. They were actually heading to vang vieng the next day and were really looking forward to it. I was planning on heading there the day after. So most likely I would see them there. Hilda turned up as well and we had a few drinks together. My drinks were tasting a bit weird and I found out that they were mixing the Lao Lao with some kind of crap, which tasted disgusting. Its a wonder I didn't taste it the night before. But I had mixed it with a really sweet drink so I never noticed. The only reason I noticed that night was the kiwi guy was doing shots of the stuff as the shots were free. And I know why, its because it looked and tasted like petrol. Yuck. I nearly got sick over it. So I just had to switch too vodka instead. And since it was more expensive I went for the bucket. Ha ha got to get my moneys worth. After awhile, ally and Luke both showed up and the kiwi couple ended up leaving at some stage as they had a bus to get the next morning. Some time during the night, Luke came up to me and asked me did I still want to go bowling. Of course.

I tried to get ally to come with us but he said he was too tired, the spoil sport. So it ended up being me, Luke and the organiser from couchsurfing, who had shown up earlier with her boyfriend and his friend.

We got a tuk tuk to the bowling alley, which was only down the road, we could have walked. And we got ourselves a bowling lane. I have to say I didn't to too bad. And I thought Luke would be better than me. But I ended up beating him by one point in the first game.

I don't think the girl from cs had ever bowled before and she didn't seem to care. Well it was like she was sulking or something cause she couldn't throw the ball. But she barely even took her turn when it came to it. I don't even know why she came. Her boyfriend was a crap thrower but still seemed to get the ball down the lane and hit the balls. He actually did quite well. I think he was chuffed with himself, and his friend wasn't any better. So when the game was over and we were asked did we want another game, I'm not surprised when it was just me and Luke that said yes. We ignored the couple we came with as they seemed to be arguing over something, the sour puss. And they even ended up leaving with out saying goodbye. Good riddings I say.

Luke and I played one more game, where I slaughtered him. I always do better in the 2nd game for some reason. Maybe cause I have warmed up. Afterwards we got instant noodles from the bar there and walked home. It wasn't as good a night as Christmas eve but it came up a close second.

The next day, was a planned day to recoup as I had a feeling I wouldn't be up for much. I got a box together and headed to the post office to mail my 3rd box home still wearing my Santa hat, but of course by the time I had gotten around to it, it was closed for lunch, so I brought the box back to the hotel to wait. I meet gias and karline at the hotel. They had bought tickets to go see traditional dancing at one of the theatres. I decided to go with them, so when I headed back later to mail my box, I headed to the theatre to see if I could get tickets. Of course the office was closed, but I got the chance to walk around the wat there and there was also a photo exhibit on monks. That was really interesting. So I guess the day didn't turn out to be a total waste. I headed back to hotel where I met gias and karline, so I could head to the evening dance performance. I walked with them back to the theatre and I was able to get tickets at the door.

We went up stairs to watch the show. It was really quite good. You could tell though that most of them were only learning. There only seemed to be a couple of guys that were really good and the others seemed to be watching them as they were dancing. It was good to support a school of dancing. Afterwards we headed for dinner, where we went for pizza. We didn't feel like eating Asian food. There is only so much rice one person can eat.

From there we headed back towards the hotel. Unfortunately it had started raining, not to heavy but still a pain. But out of the corner of my eye, I saw it. I bright shiny purple rain mac with a plastic window in the front. I was ever so excited and I think gias and karline had thought I went a bit mad. But I had been looking for one of them ever since aoife and I had seen them in hanoi in our first week of travelling. And to finally to have found one. As there was only one, as I wasn't really mad about the purple colour, but since it was the only one they had I wasn't to picky. Ha ha. If I hadn't mentioned them before, its a rain mac that the vietnamese anyway use in the rain and it prefect for going on motorbikes as the mac goes over the handle bars to keep you dry underneath and the plastic window is so that the light from the bike can still get through. I think it's genius and aoife is so going to be jealous when I get home ha ha.

I wanted to call home to say hi to people for Christmas and I'm glad I did. I got to speak to all my nephews and nieces, which was really nice. Most of them I don't get to talk to properly when I do see them. One niece I talked to it was the longest conversation I think we ever had. I asked her do I have to call her on the phone to have a proper conversation with her and she said yeah she tends to talk more on the phone. Well at least I know what I need to do now. I don't think any of them knew where Laos was, just somewhere in Asia. And one of my nephews asked me was I going to china. When I told him I was he got all excited and said to make sure I took loads of photos as they were suppose to be like 30 years in advance in technology. Is was really nice to talk to all them but it also made me home sick. it was my first Christmas totally away from home. I had missed Christmas day or Stephens day before but not both of them together. In a way I'm glad it didn't feel like Christmas or I would have really felt lonely.

Tags: bamboo bridge, christmas bowling, cycling, phu si, santa hat

 

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