The museum at Diwan Chowk

What’s the going rate for culture?

In 1947 when India and Pakistan split to become two independent countries, the princely state of Junagadh was given a choice, at least on paper, to accede to either of the two. The state’s Nawab, Mohammad Mahabat Khanji III, chose Pakistan.

Today, the museum at Diwan Chowk in the heart of Junagadh city, the premier city in the district of the same name, on the Arabian Sea coast of Saurashtra, in the state of Gujarat, India, houses a legacy that the Nawab left behind on fleeing the state that finally integrated into India basis a plebiscite that went convincingly in its favour. All over the city, crumbling imperial facades and monuments stare back at the curious, compelling them to imagine the culture and lifestyle of their once opulent residents. And at Rs. 2 for Indian tourists, steering the non air-conditioned halls of this museum allows you a latticed window view into that very way of life, left as it was half a century ago.

For example there exists a poisonous variety of coconut, the shell of which was used to store cosmetics. Put some of that stuff on and the expression ‘drop dead gorgeous’ suddenly becomes dangerously relevant. A decorated seat, encrusted with gems and precious metals, that went on top of an elephant was called a Howdah. Often considered a status symbol, it encourages one to think beyond leather upholstery the next time when in the market for a new automobile. A walking stick is a multipurpose tool. Doubling up as a sword or a pistol would have made it very effective to frighten off felons before the pepper spray was invented. However there was also one on display that served as a measuring tape. Now at that age, I wonder why measuring inches was on the old lady’s mind. One also gets an insight into some of the trends of that time. Like decorative objects in the sitting room were named after the cities that important benefactors hailed from. The Nawabs obviously knew better than to bite the hand that fed them. But kissing the ass attached to that hand, whenever possible, was commonplace. It was in vogue to support a belly or atleast get your portrait taken with one and family pets wore jewellery around their necks. ‘Paris darling, your pooch pampering is so yesterday’.

The city has a way of creeping up on history, swallowing up the past in a bid to create utilitarian space. Luckily the Durbar Hall Museum at Diwan Chowk has managed to bite off a piece of a pie, rich in history, culture and a dozen or so Howdahs, for posterity to digest.