My Scholarship entry - Understanding a Culture through Food
WORLDWIDE | Friday, 9 March 2012 | Views [154] | Scholarship Entry
From Ubud to the outer crater of Gunung Batur on a rented scooter, light drizzling rain encouraged the purchase of waterproof clothes from two old ladies who haggled endlessly over a poncho i desperately needed, and they knew it. Now waterproof, I navigated the steep road for another 200 metres before monsoonal rain and hunger forced me to seek refuge at the closest restaurant.
The place was empty except for a young woman who took my order. Left on my own to enjoy the wonderful sound of water cascading outside, the looming view of Mount Batur, teased like a burlesque dancer behind low clouds. I pictured the fish that was caught that morning in the lake that added to the picturesque scene. Succulent flesh infused with chili and lime. Alternatively, I imagined the place feeding 4 bus loads of hungry tourists, bain-marie style during the prosperous dry season.
The rain eased, I soon arrived at the base of the volcano where I ventured out to explore. Situated inside a10x13km crater, the sunshine cracked through the ominous grey rain clouds. I felt electric as the storm that had earlier threatened my descent. Lake Batur rims the south eastern crater wall and supports the local fishermen whom I was about to meet.
A cock fight was mentioned on the waters edge, I waited with the locals who were visibly excited and nervous. Behavior included constant shuffling, chatter and singing. Invited to join a game of dominos where money is lost just as quickly as it is won, I took the opportunity to lose money, get to know the rules of the game and develop friendships.
The cocks were ready. 5cm razor daggers, intricately designed and steeped in tradition were strapped on. There was chanting, raving, singing and shouting and all too suddenly, one of the cocks goes down to a series of cheers and groans. Good gamblers shouted the others lunch and the warmth of the people kept any language barrier at bay through toothy smiles and bad, yet enthusiastic Indonesian and English attempts.
Tags: Travel Writing Scholarship 2012
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