A Swiss Party for Hungry Senses

Despite not being a market person, I adore Christmas Markets. I never tire walking around the stalls. Yet, one of the things I love the most about them is the food, sweets in particular. There, I’ve said it. Coming from an Italian family that worshipped my grandmother’s cooking – and with reason! – I always taste local food everywhere I go, imagining that every meat dish, veggie porridge, coconut cake, or fried bananas must be someone’s special, loving memory they are willing to share.
The official reason why I went to Basel last November was to accompany a friend who had never been to a Christmas Market & wanted to visit one. Sure, I wanted to visit a new city; but off the record, I accepted just to get my fix of Swiss chocolate. It turned out I got much more I had bargained for.
To begin with, Basel was a discovery. I wandered around its lovely street, and I enjoyed the spectacular views on the Rhine from the Pflaz, a panoramic terrace behind the Cathedral – or Münster. I also found my personal paradise in the Basler Papiermühle, a museum dedicated to writing, printing and binding located in an old mill. Creating your own sheet of paper or trying your hand at writing Gothic letters with a quill are just two of the museum’s highlights. Of course, I eagerly did both.
Then there is the market, located in Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz. From wooden carvings to Glückswein, from freshly baked bread to Christmas carols, in entering the market an orchestra of smells and sounds welcomes you, your eyes feast upon the colors and variety of products on sale, and your mouth waters. A real party for the senses. On the second day, reaching Münsterplatz I saw an alarming glitter in the corner of my eye me: something was on fire! As nobody was running away in panic, I approached the fiery light with deep curiosity. There fire was coming from a German stall where they were smoking salmon – live! Sliced into two halves, the fish hung on two wooden racks, with a fireplace shaped like a rectangular flowerpot between them. At first, I thought they were merely showing smoking techniques and selling wooden racks and fireplaces. Then I saw people lining up in front of a counter – the German stall was a food stall! It smelled so delicious I had to try it. It really was delicious, a traditional recipe and probably the best fish sandwich I have eaten so far: freshly smoked salmon, fresh salad and a tasty sauce made of dill and mustard. The perfect lunch break in a cold winter day.