So the plan after Pamps was to try and put a hold on the spending, slow it down a notch, after all there is still 6 months to go. I know I'll head to Scandi, take it easy and camp saving money ... WRONG!
If you ever plan on owning your own home do not come to Norway, if on the other hand you are after beautiful scenery, cascading waterfalls into deep sunken fjords, friendly people and good times then this could be the destination for you.
First stop was Oslo, the capital and a city I thought would give me a good insight into Norway and the travel to come. Thankfully I was wrong as Oslo is dirty and quite dodge, there are some cool things to see here but otherwise get out of there and to the west and fjords as quick as possible (most people I have spoken with agree). Having said that there were a couple of highlights from Oslo:
- Munch Museum - to see the painting 'the scream' was pretty cool
- Vigeland Sculpture Park - amazing sculptures depicting the different stages and struggles of mankind, all from the same artist, line the path leading up to a 30m tower of bodies struggling to reach to the top
- Fram Museum - the boat which has sailed furthest north to the pole and south when Amundsen was the first to reach the pole, is housed in a museum allowing you to walk over it, in it and check out the wildlife they shot and brought back with them. Amazing to see the conditions these early explorers endured, especially when an idiot like me owns more adventure gear than the entire boat put together, yet doesn't use any of it!
- Hostelling - it was the first time I had been back in a hostel on my own for a few years and to get back to sharing a room with randoms was pretty tough, although I do believe this first room was the most random bunch of people I have ever shared with - an Itialian gigolo, a Japanese interpreter who translates copyright laws and a mand who stunk so bad it was rather pungent, like sex panther. However the king of them all was Leo, I wont bore you with all the details however he is quite possibly the most random person I have ever met. A 70yo Russian Jew who emigrated to the US in 1968, lost his leg 2 years later when he fell under a train in Greece. Has since lived in a government supplied home in Hells Kitchen, right off Broadway in NYC. He travels for a couple of years at a time sub letting his apartment (highly illegal) whilst still claiming benefits he was on his way to board a Russian ice breaker and trek to the North Pole. All this plus he could snore like no one I have ever encountered, there were people in the rooms next to us laughing at how load he was. Anyway wherever you are Leo I know you are keeping the dream alive.
Tower in Vigeland Park
Sculpture Vigeland Park
The Fram
The Scream
From Oslo I boarded the famous train to Bergen, rated as one of the most beautiful train trips in the world and highly recommended by my Lonely Planet, I was eager to check it out. What the LP fails to tell you however is that when you do reach the highest station it is still covered in snow, hence boardies and thongs were not a good choice of attire. Arriving in Myrdal I got off the train to take another train down to Flam, ignoring the strange looks I was getting by people wearing ski gear, I jumped on the train and took what is quite possibly the most incredible train ride ever. Cut into and through the cliffs leading down to Fram the train snakes it's way past waterfalls and sheer drops to certain death to arrive at the bottom of the fjord in Flam. Absolutely amazing scenery, Norway had managed to claw back some respect after the debacle that was Oslo.
Thongs were not a good choice
The only person in Norway carrying more than me, note the dog, not to be outdone I have since purchased myself one
Arriving in Flam I jumped on a ferry to take me up the Naeroyfjorden to Gudvanden. I had heard good reports about the fjords so they had a lot to live up to and they did not disappoint. The scenery here is absolutely amazing with sheer mountains, in some cases over 1km high dropping straight into the water, every 50m there is a waterfall cascading into the fjord, everything is so green and the little villages dotted along the route make it even more beautiful. I was absolutley in awe at the sheer scale of the mountains and the beauty of this place, if you were ever to become a writer this would be the place to lock yourself away and crank out a best seller. Luckily the only 2 hours of sunlight I had in Norway were also during the ferry trip, otherwise is bucketed rain the whole time. Good thing I purchased my £200 tent as i have not even taken it out of the bag yet!!
The fjord
More fjord
Getting off the ferry the next port of call was Bergen. Bergen is everything Oslo isnt, clean, pretty, nice people and a wicked hostel. I spent a few days here wandering through the old wooden buildings (which they continue to build despite the city being levelled by fire 5 times), around the port where you can buy seal skins, white reindeer fur and any other animal you have ever thought was adorable. I did have plans to move on from Bergen and go further north exploring the fjords however the cost of travelling Norway, coupled with the constant rain, meant I cut my time here short and boarded a train to Stockholm.
The main square in Bergen
The famous wooden buildings
Looking back on Bergen
All in all Norway has some of the most incredible scenery I have seen, unfortunately it comes at a cost and I didnt get to catch a glimpse of the Norsca girl showering under a waterfall either! Next stop Stockholm and the delights of Sweden.
