WANDERLUST CHLOE’S MEXICAN FEAST!

When we talk about transcontinental cities - Istanbul is queen bee. Half of her sits happily in Europe entertaining the tourists, while her lesser explored half plays across the Bosphorus strait in Asia. Istanbul’s rich history has created one of the most multicultural and diverse cities in the world, which has in turn resulted in a varied and delicious cuisine.

17 million people call Istanbul home, so it can be a little overwhelming for a new visitor. Most tourists won’t venture beyond the central zones of Sultanahmet, Taksim, and Istiklal. I escaped to Kadiköy for a food tour, to taste what life is really like on the other side… and don’t worry, it wasn’t all kebabs!

I met local tour guide Gunay around 9am on a bright April morning by the Galata Bridge. To kick it off, we crossed the Bosphorus, and warmed up with a glass of traditional Turkish tea. But, where were the tourists? Why didn’t they come to this area? Gunay informed me that while this was a more ‘local’ district, it was by no means a cheaper place to live! Over the next five or so hours, I tasted around 20 different staples of the Turkish diet, learning their origins and roles within the community.

We stopped on a bustling corner and enjoyed a meze plate filled with delicacies. I’d noticed the mussel sellers around the city, but didn’t realise they serve them stuffed with tasty rice. The delicious mouthful was followed by a spicy red pepper bulgar wheat, and several local cheeses. One highlight was the buffalo cream with honey on fluffy bread.

In Turkey they will candy anything, and pickle anything! At the historic Sekerci I sampled candied olives and aubergine. With a mouthful of sugar, we ventured to Özcan for a swig of red turnip juice followed by some pickle juice - two acquired tastes that I decided I didn’t have any need to acquire! An older gentleman tapped my arm and pointed at a photo on the wall “that’s me,” he said. I looked at the ancient photo, and saw he was just a small boy when the store was opened.

As time ticked by, I watched as M Caddessi transformed from rows of street sweepers and restaurant workers setting up, to a bustling street at the heart of the foodie community.

After a few hours exploring the Kadiköy neighbourhood, and several kg heavier, we finished by drinking Türk kahvesi and munching on a light trileche cake and some nutty baklava.

All that was left was to venture back to Europe on the ferry, but not before collecting a few treats to take home!