A taste of Paisa passion at the football

I’d seen Colombian passion for the beautiful game on TV during the world cup in Brazil and couldn’t miss seeing it with my own eyes.

That morning, a red river of people flowed through the heart of Medellin. Deportivo Independiente Medellín (DIM) were playing and no-one wants to miss that. I was carried along helplessly with the current. The life-blood of the city getting stronger as more fans joined. Standing out like a polar bear in a desert, I couldn’t continue without attempting to fit in with the locals.

The shirt seller solemnly allowed me to try his treasures, while his sister giggled off to his left. Who was this gringa wearing their colours? How hilarious her face matches the shirt in this sweaty midday heat. His smile was a brief gift in return for the biggest sale of the day and now a happy traveller could head to the game kitted in the local uniform.

Entering the stadium with caution, I stop only to get my face painted with DIM emblem by the small girl on the stairway. Efficient in her art, it took less than a minute to become branded. Now I was battle ready.

A roar filled the air while busty ladies in tiny dresses left the pitch to make way for men in shorts. Sticks struck drums with a furious beat while men and women leapt up and down in the aisles.

The game began.

Ball kicked from one end to the other, the crowd filled with deafening cheers each time a red ran near. The jumpers gained energy. One fan fell off the balcony from such intense enthusiasm for this team of local heroes.

I looked around the crowd, nervously assessing if there was danger in such a busy place. Could the friendly fight opposite spread to the rest of the stadium like a Mexican wave of violence?

Booming sounds filled my ears once more. I couldn’t have thought to run even if it was possible. The hug came at me fast and to maintain a British politeness, I hugged right back and found myself jumping, mirroring my new Colombian dance partner in this tangle of celebration. High fives and screams I couldn’t understand. An accurate translation wasn't necessary - the reds had scored and nothing else mattered in the world.

To get a real glimpse of the locals, football games in Medellin take place on Saturdays and it’s easy to get a ticket from a tout by the stadium. Stay in one of the friendly hostels near Estadio metro, where you’ll find a buzzing nightlife to rival El Poblado. Then, all you have to do is wear some red and enjoy the madness of Paisa passion.