An unexpected journey in Cambodia

As our bus arrived in Battambang, a flurry of Tuk Tuk drivers boarded, offering their services in their usual passive aggressive manor. Given that we had arranged no mode of transport to our hotel, we happily accepted a ride from a young guy named Rich. He offered to not only take us to the hotel, but to be our driver for the rest of the day. Hesitantly, we agreed for the sake of convenience. Next stop; The Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau.

We started our ascent and half way up the hill were the Killing Caves. As we made our way into the cave down some stairs, we were captivated by the eerie ambience. Looking further, at the foot of the stairs lay a large gold reclined Buddha against a background of blackness. Beside it lay a memorial for the departed, with skulls and bones present.

Ominously, we walked further into the cave with the help of our phone flashlights. Unsure of how far we had walked in, I became curious of our surroundings and shone my flashlight upwards. We were greeted by a picture that even Alfred Hitchcock would have been proud of. Thousands upon thousands of bats, with eyes reflecting back at us. We immediately switched off the lights with our faces a picture of horror, and became swallowed by the darkness. Swiftly, we headed back the way we came.

It was evening and we met back up with Rich. Without prompting, he drove us past big crowds all the while proclaiming to taking us “somewhere better”. Approximately 100 meters down the road, he stopped and I noticed how excited he was. Tuk Tuk drivers are never excited about tourist attractions.

As we climbed up the sheer limestone rocks, I couldn’t help but notice the stunning landscape behind us. The mountainous horizon was painted an array of red, yellow and orange, and the clouds held the promise of a calm, but magical night. There were only 7 other tourists there, all standing obediently behind the barrier. Sunsets are one of my favourite things, so against Rich’s advice, I jumped over the barrier to the other side and climbed up some rocks to get a better vantage point.

In just under an hour, a flurry of over a million bats left the cave. It was truly the most breathtaking, surreal thing I have ever witnessed. I learnt after that the bats fly off to the countryside where they feed and return before dawn. As I sat there, completely oblivious to the sharp rocks I was sitting on and the rancid odour of millions of bat droppings, I left my senses at the complete mercy of Mother Nature.