La Vida Mexicana

We are all covered in dust. It billows in uninhibited from the open back of the van. It enters wrinkles of sweat and turns hair grey. The brave talk, allowing dirt to enter their lungs and fill the caverns of their teeth.

The van looked full of people when it arrived at Mazunte but the driver assured us it could fit 10 more. I straddled a hippy between my legs who kindly lifted me back to standing position after we took an abrupt turn and I collapsed onto his lap. Thankfully the other 10-15 passengers got off quickly, giving my friends and I enough space to sit 5x5, facing each other with bemused expressions, our scorched skin and fresh croissants our only souvenirs.

It was Semana Santa. We’d ventured away from the popular Mexican beaches and winded up in Mazunte, 50km east of Puerto Escondito. Cabañas dot the hillside. Those higher up own a spectacular view and a treacherous path. Cabaña Tierra Verde run by kind hippies greeted us with hammocks overlooking the ocean, Mexican ceramic sinks, a meditation centre and thriving garden. Endure the steep climb to flop underneath a mosquito net and hear the waves roar.

Mazunte beach is a good place to people watch. One might find an American belting out a Mexican tune at lunch or fishermen showing off their bounty to curious tourists. The seafood is predictably wonderful so don’t attempt to share. 3-4 hour boat trips are offered here that race down the length of the beach in search of turtles. When found our captain cut the engine and dove into the water, resurfacing with a turtle held proudly above his head. Turtles were hunted for meat in Mazunte and I feared the motive behind our captain’s quick reflexes but ever since the hunting prohibition in 1990 turtles have been protected in the area.

Around the bend, a less known beach called Mermejita attracts the more daring swimmers. I floated happily alongside boogie boarders until my face burned from the sun. Only afterwards was I informed crocodiles swam nearby. For a picturesque view, walk to Punto Cometa along the tall rocky barrier and wait, camera poised, for sunset.

At night the forest hums. In a matter of decades the idea of a place has reversed. Hunted species can now live peacefully. Environmental, organic and vegetarian alternatives, impossible to find elsewhere in Mexico, prosper in Mazunte. In a country economically problematic it’s inspiring to know Mexicans risked poverty to protect the environment. Would I have done the same?