Zanzibar
Stone Town is a mishmash of Arabic/Swahili/Rustafarian cultures squished into a little portside town that constantly smells like fish. People are friendly, extra so if you’re a Mzungu girl, but everyone is made to feel welcome. We stayed at the Princess Salame Inn, a cosy little hotel with 10 rooms, so you really do get the personalised services. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace overlooking the harbour, pleasant once you get used to the smell of decaying fish. The staff, although a little forward when it comes to asserting their inclinations towards you, are sincere. I have a rather sweet souvenir from the receptionist, a note cut into the shape of a heart proclaiming his love for me, even though we had only just met. Sweet but a very African thing I have found.
I visited the ruins of the palace of the last Zanzibarian sultan, Although it had burnt down, and is now being rebuilt, the remains were sufficient in highlighting the lifestyle of the “Goodlife King”. It housed his 99wives/slaves on weekends and holidays, the remainder of the time they were split between any number of his various residences. The palace included 3 huge outside bathing pools, from which the sultan would pick 6 of his wives out of the 99 who were swimming naked, the six would feed and wash, massage and entertain the sultan before ’jiggy jiggy’. Hence the local men regarding him as the ’goodlife king’.
There are no beaches in Stonetown with the nearest being a number of kilometres away, so swimming during the first week was reserved for special occasions, even though temperatures were in the high 30’s.
“Sauti a Busara”, (the direct translation is ’sounds of wisdom’) the music festival I went to see while in Zanzibar was the most incredible thing. The venue, a somewhat dilapidated fort, encapsulated the spirit of the music and the people perfectly. Thousands of people from all over the world went to experience East africas best music and entertainment, the headlining act was an incredible woman aged 112, who sang and played the bongos. Her secret to a long and happy life, drinking and smoking weed everyday. A true rusta woman! The fort, located in Stone Town, housed the festival for 5 days, of which we were present for 4, before it moved to a beach on the northern end of the island, where we followed. Grant, my WYI travelling partner and I met so many people, among the most memorable were 2 aussie girls and a number of boys from Lamu (Kenyan Coast). We spent most of our time with this group and had a crazy time. The boys had interesting names… coconut, coffee, Jamaica, government, umy (Hahahah Shaz that ones for you) but they are the most interesting, genuine and beautiful people. I miss them all. Shaz and Gemma, both made a huge impact on our trip, Gem’s drinking games were a hit, Shaz’s “lets go swimming… lets swim… are u ready to swim now?… ok lets go… swimming now!” and the boys constant entertainment are dearly missed.
I spent Valentines day in Stone Town, Grant and I had only each other to console. We spent the evening wandering the night markets eating calamari and chicken and a big bread roll/small loaf of bread. Disappointing and uneventful but not unpleasant.
After four days in Stone Town we opted for the quiet beachside town of Nungwi, the most breathtaking place I have ever been. The water is crystal clear and resembles the colour of a swimming pool in the deep sections, and is the temperature of a luke warm bath at all times of the day and night.
Nungwi is the home of a million rasta men. Every second person has dredlocks and you can buy weed or gunja off every other person. Lifestyle is what counts there, nobody works too hard but everyone parties hard. Truly is paradise. We spent the days lounging by the ocean, sipping cocktails, having massages, and swimming. And the evenings strolling along the beach, eating dinner on the sand and sitting around bonfires. Zanzibarian beach parties are incredible. Many a nights we stayed out until sunrise then walked along the beach home.
We stayed at Union Beach Bungalows, grant and I shared a room that was not much further than 10steps from the ocean. Gemma and Shaz stayed at the same place so the day generally played out as follows: sleeping til 8:30 (exceptfor Gemma who would generally sleep til midday), breakfast with Shaz and Grant in the beachside restaurant (by beachside I mean on the beach, it literally was on the beach… I struggled with getting the chairs stable on the sand), then a few hours of swimming and sun baking then by 11:30am it was time for cocktails/massages/a good book, then lunch in the local market place, (Gem waking up and joining the fun), more swimming/sunbaking/walking on the beach/more cocktails, sunset, dinner, drinks around the bonfire, then drinking till, a boat ride to a local beach party, traditional Swahili entertainment or a game of pool with the beach masai (which grant and I won!)
On my return to Nairobi, even though I was sick there was a rather large gathering… the drop off to the bus station when returning to Kisumu was rather embarrassing… the boys surprised me with roses for valentines day (a few days late but it was very sweet of them to do so) then we took photos… me with each one individually, then some wanted a do over, then groups photos with me then with out me, then each of the boys posing with the roses… very much a spectacle! But it was really lovely to have people around when your missing home. The bus ride was long and tiresome, the roads are so bumpy that even I couldn’t manage to sleep for very long.
And I have been sick for just over a month now… so my fear of public toilets is completely gone. And I have spent more time than I care to remember in and out of hospitals. Sickness has become part of my life. But I am getting tired of it. Home is looking more and more attractive.
Anyway I am off to do some washing. I have run out of cothes ad am at school tomorrow. Even though there is no dress code I think it would be a problem if I turned up naked.
Blink blink blink, I miss u and I love u.
Love love love, I miss u and hope you had a good birthday.
I miss everyone else and would love to hear from you all.
V xoxo
