Beijing is big. Really, really big. Even the drive into town from the airport is an epic voyage in itself, taking you along endless majestic boulevards, past massive green parks, and mile after mile after mile of shiny new tower buildings, all being rolled out in time for the Olympics.
With just a few days here, we only have time to see some of the city's sights, but from the vastness of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City to the delicate Ming-dynasty beauties of the Temple of Heaven, it's all been astonishing. Our trip out to the Great Wall yesterday was a real highlight. It took three hours to reach Simatai, but it was worth every second. So many places we visit these days are less thrilling than you anticipate - the sight seems somehow diminished in reality, or is so hidden behind other tourists and postcard touts, you can't take it in properly. The Great Wall, however, is much grander than you expect. At Simatai, it stretches its way over the serpent-like undulations of a rugged mountain range. How many workers died during its construction is difficult to imagine - we were fairly hard-taxed, just walking along it! It was a one-and-a-half-hour rugged climb, uphill all the way, with stairs that are both steep and uneven, so you need to watch your footing the whole way. The reward: astonishing views out over the fertile valley, and a real appreciation for what an impressive achievement the emperors left behind them.
Even the drive out to Simatai was enjoyable, soaking up the views over the tranquil countryside. Plenty more of that tomorrow, when we embark on the first leg of our train journey. It will take us a day and a night to get to Ulan Baator, the Mongolian capital: we'll pass the Great Wall again, as well as journeying through mountains and arid deserts. Everyone's very excited about this first leg (and about the chance to rest our weary legs for a whole day!) Must go do some last-minute shopping: wise heads have recommended bringing plenty of snacks, plus our town toilet paper.
Will send more news from Mongolia!
