Traffic Terror!

North Vietnam is stunning. The landscape is diverse, the people are friendly and the food is delicious.The challenge, however, is surviving the traffic mayhem long enough to experience what the rest of the region has to offer.
Let me describe the streets of Hanoi. Imagine a four lane road in Sydney minus the lane markings.Throw in approximately 3000 cars and taxis, 4000 pushbikes and 5000 mopeds. Add a few hundred Vietnamese pedestrians, often balancing weighty buckets precariously on their heads or on poles across their shoulders. Finally, include the tourists, their brains in holiday mode, typically unobservant on the road. I soon discovered the best entertainment in Hanoi was to watch the mayhem from a distance. However, the time came when I was forced to experience the terror of a road crossing firsthand. I watched the locals do it with ease, stepping nonchalantly off the kerb, weaving their way between the traffic to the other side in one fluid movement. But, noting that they could touch every vehicle on their journey, it didn’t inspire much confidence. Stuck in the same position 30 minutes later, I spied a woman nearby waiting to cross the road. Walking over, I asked if I could accompany her. She obviously sensed my fear because she immediately clutched my arm and led me across, like a mother protecting her baby.
“Thank you so much,” I said, “How does anyone manage this without getting killed?”
In stilted English she responded as she lifted her sleeve uncovering a bandage.
“Two week ago, arm hurt, knock by car while me crossing. Very painful.”
I watched her walk away wondering why she continued this dangerous habit until I realised - she had no choice.
Since returning to Sydney, I have a renewed perspective during peak hour. I remain calm when someone cuts me off while changing lanes. I appreciate the traffic lights, even when they remain red for an eternity. The odd horn or finger signal leaves me bemused - I am finally and irrevocably cured of my road rage.