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Sharing Stories - A Glimpse into Another's Life - Centipede by Whang-od, a 92-year-old last Filipino

PHILIPPINES | Sunday, 24 March 2013 | Views [373] | Scholarship Entry

Citrus (lemon) thorn, bamboo sticks, charcoal and an ice cream container: these are treasures to Whang-od, the last traditional tattoo (mambabatok) artist in the Philippines who passionately tries to make the tradition of tattooing in the Philippines still alive.
And before the traditional artistic treasure of tattooing disappears in the Philippines, I made sure I got the chance to experience it with the legend's hand, from the 92-year-old Filipina tattoo artist, Whang-od.
Whang-od shows grace and strength of a Filipina despite her age. She is on her 90s but Whang-od still goes to the rice field to work whenever she doesn't have guests. She is a petite old woman with traditional tattoos around her body- from her foot up, legs, arms, shoulders and chest.
I was with my new-found friends, Achie, Ela, Des, Ro and Eitheen, whom I just met in the bus while I was heading to Buscalan where I can find Whang-od.

We trekked with our tour guide Kuya Charlie for almost an hour in the mountains of Barangay Buscalan, Kalinga to meet Whang-od.

Whang-od was still not there when we reached their house. She said to be in the rice fields. And after few minutes of waiting we met Whang-od at her humble house. She was still full of thorns, a sign that she just arrived from the rice field.

Whang-od immediately prepared her tattoo gears without minding to rest. I wonder if he washed her hands before preparing for the tattoo session.

I volunteered to be inked first as I was catching up an early morning trip to Bontoc and be back to Manila early in the evening the next day.

She asked me to sit on a monoblock chair , just right outside there toilet, and put a portion of log to position my right foot. And she started sketching the centipede design which she suggested using a charcoal, on my right ankle. Centipede in the Filipino tradition represents the warrior's buddy to protect him/her from harm.

Despite her age, Whang-od I believe don't have difficulty with her sight not like the other oldies at her age. She was so focused that she can even follow the details of her sketch. Her hands were calm. I wonder where she got her strength.

For almost an hour, I was so busy enduring the pain and at the same time feeling the fresh air, seeing the scenic view of the mountains, clouds, rice terraces, observing the locals and even the wild pigs passing by and the every details of tattoo Whang-od has on her arms.

Whang-od hammered my ankle using two bamboo stick,one with the citrus

Tags: Travel Writing Scholarship 2013

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