On my final morning in Cali my hosts decided to follow me to Popoyan, and for only the second time on the trip i had motorcycling travel companions. The roads were in great shape with magical scenery, mountains, rivers, rolling fields filled with all sorts of tropical fruit and small villages with the colouful vendors and their wares along the way. Popoyan is a magical city, cobbled streets and whitewashed colonial biuldings line the central area. The city was all but flattened by an earthquake in 1983, the city was rebiult in its original style, the historical charm remains. Next stage is the long ride to Pasto a 6 or 7 hour day and onto Ecuador. I am told the road is potholed and rough, we will see.
I found my way out of Popoyan easily and joined the Pan Americana heading south. The road climbed steadily, winding its way to the clouds. This section is where the Cordillerra Occidental, Central and Oriental meet to start the Andes chain. The scenery is stunning, varying from pine forest to high desert filled with cactus. The road showed signs of recent avalanches and washaways, steep cliffs surrounding you giving a certain sense of claustraphobia. Villages dotted the hillsides and the army controlled the the bridges and tunnels giving a semblance of security to an area which was once controlled by guerrillas. The road plateaued and for 70 kms the mountains were desolate and windswept with the sharp rocky crags replaced by flat top mesas. Intermittent rain swept across as the wind blew clouds into my path, just enough to wet everything and to chill me. The run into Pasto is dominated by Volcan Galeras belching gases from the crater. The town is on constant alert with an eruption always threatening. On arriving i was greeted and mobbed by crowds wanting to know everything about me. A contact from Cali called a courier who met me took me to a hotel and then bought me lunch. Later on picked up and taken on a tour of the town. My Colombian experience so far has been one of the highlights mainly because of the wonderful people. I will be sad to leave this country but new adventures await in Ecuador.
An early start and then hours of formalities as people came to the hotel to see me off and wish me luck. I couldnt believe it i was given gifts which made me have to repack. By the time i was on the road it was 9.00am, 3 hours just to get away then i recieved a escort to the Pan American. I am just over awed by the whole experience. The ride to Ipiales was just as spectacular if not as dramatic as the ride from Popoyan to Pasto. Rolling hills with a patchwork of fields divided by hedgerows, i called it Hobbiton. By the time i reached the Ecuadorian border it was nearly lunchtime, the line for immigration stretched out of the biulding. By the time i had cleared the bike through customs 5 full hours had elapsed. Rain began to fall with 107kms still to do, i finished up riding into Ibarra on a cold wet night into the warm friendly arms of a family run Hostel. The Colombian kindness has carried through. Onwards Ecuador.
