Glimpsing Geiko in Gion

JAPAN | Saturday, 12 January 2013 | Views [267] | View Smaller Image

Despite her popularity, the life of a Kyoto geisha (known locally as geiko) is a lonely one. Considered the ultimate hostess, she says goodbye to her family and commences her training at the tender age of 16. After a rigorous apprenticeship spanning half a decade, a maiko becomes a full-fledged geiko. With this, she earns the right to her own home, but it will be an empty one, for a geiko may never marry.

As the sun begins its descent, the streets of Gion burst to life in a frenzy of activity as geisha emerge from their living quarters — like rabbits from their dens — to attend the first of the evening’s appointments. Visitors travel from far and wide to Gion hoping to catch a glimpse of these rare and romanticized figureheads of Japanese culture. This apprentice geisha, or maiko as they are locally known, glances about anxiously, anticipating the overly eager entourage of strangers that will soon swarm her.

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Draped in impossibly elaborate kimono—the most lavish of which can cost upwards of $100,000 USD—and with her face painted porcelain white, catching a glimpse of a maiko as she glides through the worn, well-traveled streets of Gion is akin to gazing upon not a flesh and blood woman, but a ghost. Poised and perfectly put together, geiko and maiko exude elegance and are the living embodiment of centuries of Japanese culture and tradition. So long as they continue to haunt its lanes and alleyways, Gion’s secret histories can endure.

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Glimpsing Geiko in Gion

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