...Hello...back after a break in the south of Thailand...a beach called Ton Sai. BERLOODY LOVERLY and much fun. To be described later.
First...I'd usually just finish off the last post from CHang Mai with this current entry, but I'm making a new post as Julia suggested that maybe many readers won't re-read or re-check an old post for filled in details. If this is you...perhaps you could re-check several old messages that you thought MAY have been incomplete.
Anyway...one of my anticipated things to do with our time in Thailand was to take a cooking course. Yurij would be proud of me...advancing my epicurian know how...perhaps leading to the cooking show he pushes me towards...time will tell. Anyway, the two of us hoped into the back of a thai taxi (quarter ton truck with benches...suitable to carry, say, 8-20 people) and headed first to the food markets to explore all the ingredients we'd be using. Besides meeting our lovely and FUNNY chef, named Permpoon...Perm for short, we discovered and tasted all the fresh herbs and roots, veggies, fruit, etc. I also learned a few neat things about eggs. We've been surprised to see them basking in the sun for days before being sold...but as it turns out, an egg will keep for about 1 month unrefridgerated so long as it hasn't been washed. Once washed, they'll keep for at most 1 week...something to do with changing the temperature and starting the degradation process(??). Anyway...t'was interesting...but the best yet to come. Our group was a nice group of 8 people...2 of whom were from Alaska (different). We drove 20 minutes out of town to some nice burbs where Perm made his home. His class, if anyone wants to go and take this worthwhile course, was called 'The Master' cooking class...I have his info somewhere with me.
Perm was a true entertainer and a superb cook and teacher all in one. He'd be a fantastic 'guest' on say Emeril live or something too. His best, and pattented move, was after tasting or smelling his food...he'd show is the 'made for TV' dreamy smile that is REQUIRED to convince the audience that what you've cooked is heavenly. Quite the site. He also taught us some 'Adventure cooking' techniques...a photo of which Julia will put on the website when available...me behind a HUGE ball of flame while making a basic stir fry. Anyway, instead of describing all the details of cutting and boiling and frying etc...I'll tell you that we learned to cook some of thailands BEST dishes...including: Tom Yum, Som Tam, Green and Panang Curries, Pad Thai, Stir fried veggies, and Mango and Sticky rice. They were all FANTASTIC...and if you'd like a sample, our rates are quite reasonable. Remembering we are in need of employment when we return home...don't think I'm joking hahaha. I can't wait to cook for some of my food loving friends and family when we get home. We all went home stuffed, with the runs, and yet...smiles on our faces.
I think Julia and I explored a bit more of the night market that night...had a few more swims, and prepared for our trek the following day.
We signed up for a 2 day, 1-night hill tribe trek in northern thailand. Not opting for anything longer for both time and desire to trek (we'll have enough in Nepal)...it seemed a little touristy...but still quite interesting. This trip started like all the others...with us being crammed in the back of a pick-up...not knowing if we were going to the right place with the right group or not. Just pack your bags and go. As it turns out...our group consisted of 3 couples (us, an irish couple and an english couple) and the seventh wheel named Mel (very nice gal from the UK). We were all within 4 years in age...and it really was a NICE group of people to do this with! We did a little driving around to the markets...supposedly to get our food...and eventually, after a few hours, made it to the starting point of the trip...VERY close to the burmese border. Julia and I had signed up for a different trek indeed...but I suppose there weren't enough people, so we were slotted in with this group which had opted for the tougher and more rustic trek (perfect). Before long...we stopped for lunch (instant noodles wrapped in paper), eaten in a metal shack complete with dirt floor, chickens and dogs scampering around...and the obligatory Karaoke machine in the corner. Funny sight. Moving on up the dirt and pot-holed road to our starting point. It was hilly and beautiful countrside, filled with fields of cabbage (and the accompanying smell of fart) and smoke from all the burning of the forest floor (for fertilizer, fire control, etc.). After our first hundred metres of walking, we took a half hour break at a local swimming hole...the spectacular water falls they were excited to show us (which were little more than minor rapids). It was nice and refreshing though after the dusty truck ride and we were greeted by some kids who were excited to have the foreign 'climbing gym' arrive in their pool. WE then walked steeply for about 1.5 hours via a tiny trail with many overhanging leaves, branches, etc. Our guide...although nice...was a bit of a let down as he'd simply walk about 10 metres in front of the group and point out NOTHING along the way...and seemed to know NOTHING of the hill tribes we were visiting. At one point, we asked him to translate a sign post out in the middle of NO WHERE...and he said it indicated 'Please don't fight with the bamboo'. Yeah...thanks buddy. ANyway, we stopped in a wee hilltribe for a quick refreshment of bottled water...and learned nothing about them...then continued on for another 1.5 hours of uphill trekking before arriving at our overnight spot. There was really no greeting for us...we walked to our interesting accomadations which consisted of a stilted bamboo hut with a THIN and holed bamboo floor...mats to sleep on and mosquito nets. We were surprised it didn't collapse...but all in all, it was quite cool and had a nice view over the mountain valley. We walked around the village while the guide cooked a simple supper...looked in some houses and noticed that they had solar powered TV to entertain them...trucks and motor bikes to get their wares to the city markets...and little else. One little girl and I had a wee burping contest...which she won...we discovered a church, a manual flour press, and looked at the many pigs and dogs and chickens running around. Not much else to do. We enjoyed some beers within our group and conversed...then at night we watched the approaching brush fires set in amongst the dry bamboo forests, and waited to be entertained by the village kids who were going to dance for us.
That was a different treat...funny how long they spent playing on our porch in full costume before the girls came in (aged 4-11 perhaps) and danced...accompanied by the rowdy boys outside the hut shouting their heads off to the tunes the girls were to be singing. Instead...the girls giggled and danced. It was nice and funny...and the other group of hikers (who was NOT supposed to be there according to the tour company who said we'd be totally alone) and us enjoyed it. To bed for a semi-restless sleep...Julia waking at all the sounds...Mel's snoring, pigs humping, dogs barking at the 'hill tribers' returning from their drinking and karaoke, hunters shooting wild chickens, the approaching fire crackling with the occaisional flare-ups, and the pre-mature cock-a-doodle doos of the damn roosters. We had a lazy morning before heading down-hill for about 2-3 hours...a wee snake was the wildlife we saw along with the gorgeous scenery before we arrived at the elephant riding station. A quick lunch and drink...we then rode a huge elephant through the rives and mountain passes...even having the chance to ride it's prickly head and 'steer' it with grunts...and feed them some sugar cane (not free). Good experience...then off down the river for some not-so-white water rafting...but a good refreshing paddle with a CRAZY guide and plenty of water fights between boats...then a short and tipsy bamboo raft for another 40 minutes or so...our guide totally abandoning us to take the treacherous journey on our own...then the ride home. Good times...a little more 'touristy' than promised...and wasn't terribly creative...but it was quite raw and real.
That night...our entire group (it seems we might have enjoyed each others company after all haha) met for a beautiful buffet (filled with grilled meat and gravy!), some drinks, and an eventual night at the disco. Jilian and Bill discovered, and introduced us to SAm Sung thai rum...we watched an impressive fire spinner...and made our way to a dance club for several hours. More good fun! Just before that, Julia made a man SNAP at the market by bargaining him to the lowest price EVER for some simple lamp shades. She's ruthless...but much better at it than I am (I'll make a savings of say 5% where Julia regularly gets more than 50%) haha.
Our last day in Chang Mai consisted of a trip to the post-office...a drink with Mel...and a meal with Sunny's friends Marjorie, Graham and MIcheal (Canadians from Saskatoon working in Thailand...perhaps permanently). ANyway...VERY nice people...good to talk to, and eat more delicious food with. They saw us off to the train station that night at 10pm after some fantastic conversation, Canadian company, and food!
Julia and I were then sent to our top bunks on the train for a relatively comfortable...albeit hot train ride in the 'economy' car, destined for Bangkok. Once there (15 hours later)...we booked bus passage to Krabi leaving at 7pm. So...spent some time showering, eating and walking around the train station waiting for our next 13 hour bus journey. After being kicked off of our VIP bus a few hours from our destination...then having to get a crowded bus to Krabi...and still had 2 more legs of the journey (taxi and boat) to get to Ton Sai...needless to say...we arrived Crabby in Krabi...but still found the strength to get ourselves to our final destination. To be described in another session.
I hope you're all VERY well...look forward to hearing from all our friends and family!
TYler and Julia
