Hello again!!
I've just returned from an AMAZING
sun-burn/frekle session in one of our favorite places in NZ so
far...Queenstown. More on this later.
Julia and I left
Christchurch, having not done TOO much, but enjoyed our stay. We were
off on the highly recommended Tranz-Alpine train trip through Arthur's
Pass and past some of the "worlds most gorgeous scenery". Kind of an
opinion thing I'd assume...I'd say some of the beaches we've been on
have had some of the best 'scenery' haha. Anyway...the train ride did
provide some 'breath-taking' scenery...and as much as it was 'meant to
be GORGEOUS' (as the POMEs say)...it was. We then had a lng bus ride
to Fox Glacier along the west coast of the south island. The best
thing of this trip was the funky bus driver who must have really been a
radio DJ in diguise. He talked non-stop...used 'YEAH' like the
americans girly girls use the word 'LIKE'...only about 20%
comprehensible to us despite the fact that he was speaking
english...but kept us thouroughly entertained!! We decided to go to
Fox Glacier rather than the more popular Franz Joseph for just that
reason...less popular means fewer tourists. We had to walk about 1km
to our hostel, which was a converted house with only 2 other couples
staying there (thank heaven as the main hostel was packed with teenie
boppers all basking in their worldly travel knowledge and hippiness of
their life-choices...getting tired of that kind of attitude you might
guess). Anyway...Julia and I cooked up a MEAN meal of roasted leg of
lamb, chicken, roast potatoes I've FINALLY learned how to make properly
(thanks to Simon in the Cooks who let me taste one of his tasty
potatoey morsels;), had some nice cheap NZ wine and a good chat
followed by a leisurely walk, a toss of a stray rugby ball in the back
yard, and more admiring of the mountainous scenery. We woke early,
both with exceptionally sore backs from a wierd bed, and started a day
of 25km walking. First we walked to a lake (forget the name) in which
you see some special views of the snow mountains reflecting in it. We
tried to feed some 3 foot tuna eels we found under a dock pieces of our
granola bar...I left a tasty treat in the bush a short ways off the
track...and we tried to avoid the masses of Japanese tourists there. A
nice walk through pasture, bush, and a fortunate ride home from some
friendly Kiwis. We were about to fake a limp to get a sympathy
ride...but didn't need to. Our walk continued up to Fax Glacier, about
10km away. We didn't want to spend the money to either get a
heli-tour, or a guided walk on a big ice-cube...being Canadians and
all...so we just stared, and tried to justify the long walk as a warm
up to our upcoming 5 day hike on the Routeburn.
We left Fox on
a typically prolonged NZ bus trip. They seem to have a system going on
of taking twice as long to get anywhere as it would NORMALLY take if
you just drove straight...but they stop at every little look-out and
shop, forcing us helpless tourists to spend money needlessly. Clever
people. Anyway...we arrived in Queenstown for1.5 days before our hike
began...enough time to get prepared and to check the place out. By
that...I mean that Julia had time to find every chocolate store and
acquire a favorite fudge factory, we visited nearly every shop and
contemplated many gifts (none of which we could afford...but let it be
known that we were thinking of all of you haha)...especially the nice
greenstone jewellery and all blacks apparel...and really developed a
good liking of the place. We were surprised and happy to meet up with
our american friend Gordie who we met in the Cook islands. He and his
buds were in town on their way to a few hikes...so with them and 2 nice
German ladies (Krista and Simona) we met at our hostel...we had a pub
meal and beer one night.
All packed up for our trek, equiped
with plenty of food and clothing, but only with our VERY thin sleepng
bags...we were off to hike one of the GREAT WALKS...the Routeburn. The
first day consisted of a neat bus ride there...again with views so
stunning they're becomming boring, and a BEAUTIFUL day of hiking.
After a few hours, Julia and I shed our packs at the first hut and took
a side hike through some mountain valley into a fern gulley which had
several minor river crossings to negotiate (river crossings involve
crossing a river by foot...no bridge). I carried Julia over the first
one...but she was good to go after that, and we had a nice time.
Hiking for a few more hours, we stoped to see the scenery which we'll
share with you as soon as we get more pictures transferred to CD, we
built another small inukshuk, and arrived at a VERY scenic lodge spot
with 50 guests (full-house) called Routeburn Falls hut (because of the
nearby falls). The facilities consist of a kitchen with water
(unpurified but cleaner than any bottled water!!) and gas stoves. We
ate our freeze dried meals and managed to squander some left over
chocolate pudding from some nice ladies who noticed us drooling in
their direction. Bed was an early event after the long hike...and in
cabins of 25, there was a symphony of snorers!!! We slept in little
nooks of 4 bunks, but Julia swears her plywood divider was shaking from
the guy next to her...and consequently she slept little. With a
forecast of rain the next afternoon...we rose at 6am to start our
hike. With a meal of poridge and granola bars...we were off for an 8
hour day with mountain passes, forest walk...and you guessed it...more
'gorgeous' views. The clouds did roll in, hiding much of the what
would have been better views...but the rain didn't come. Finally
arriving at McKenzie hut...situated on a gorgeous green mountain lake
that seemed to mimic the northen lights with the wind breezing over its
surface...we did much of the same as the night before. Of course...no
swimming again here as the water is absolutely frigid...we met some
very nice people including a Canadian/Swede girl named Maria, an
English couple (Rob and Sam), and a very funny DOC Warden named Clyve
Rule. He gave us the pessimistic forecast f nothing but rain for the
next week...but warmed us with laughter! Our third day was a short
one...only 3 hours of hiking in the drizzle to Howden Hut where Julia
and I were joined only by one other hiker...a nice German guy named
Achim. We lit a coal fire and played cards, chatted, ate very little
for supper, and slept long and early (after a wee nap and read).
Julia
and I had an early 1hr hike to our pick up point called 'The Divide'
where we were collected by the kayaking company who took us on a cool
trip in MIlford Sound. We were re-united with our new friend
Maira...and had a cool day, starting with low cloud cover making
Milford seem eerily haunted. Our crazy guide with a funny lisp took us
around to some 180m waterfalls, up close and personal with some fur
seals, a few VERY rare penguins, and some Maori legends of the creation
of the sound. The only irritation were the blackflies...but with the
sun coming out later on and the wind helping to blow us back to the
start...we double kayaked our way past more seals and a pod of HUGE
bottlenose dolphins (maybe 3.5-4m long!!) which swam right under us!!
It was a special experience!! We proceeded to Milford lodge for our
first of 2 nights...met our new roomies who were a young and very nice
couple from Oz.,..named Jason and Belinda. Unfortunately...Milford had
NO shops to speak of, so we were forced to eat plain pasta that we were
able to buy from the front desk for HUGE prices. Our second day
consisted of not much but resting and reading. we had a short walk,
but the rain, blackflies and tired muscles kept us inside. We had a
few drinks with our bunk-mates that night...but did very little else.
If you ever travel to Milford sound...don't stay long, bring all your
own stuff, do the kayaking...and remember bug spray!! We woke to a
BEAUTIFUL and unforcasted sunny day...and were well rested for our
final 2 days of hiking on the Caples trail. A day filled with
spectacular views...more than making up for the days of cloud...we
hiked a hard hike for about 3 hours up and down mountain sides...lots
of scrambling up steep passes...and very tiring! We had 5 more hours
of downhill...which we actually found harder than the up (on our joints
at least) over some very rooty terrain. We arrived to a full house at
the first upper capples hut...16 people jammed into 4 bunks of 4 beds.
That meant we got to sleep with some very cool and funny Brits named
Catalina and Jason. As everyone went to bed early (nothing to do
outside with the millions of blackflies...really the only bug we've
encountered here)...we 4 stayed on our top bunk and whispered and
giggled like scool kids...farted and swore a bit for flavour...but had
a good laugh followed by a horrible sleep!!
Our second
day...gorgeous again...was all we could stand of hiking!! Julia had an
injured left leg, my ankle, and too many km to the finish...despite
some more amazing nature and views. We hiked hard to get to our ferry
pick-up on time, had a nice lie-down on a deserted pier, a FAST boat
ride to our shuttle...and a welcome shuttle back to civilization! I'm
not sure that we'll be up for our 21 day hike in Nepal...it just
doesn't turn our cranks to work that hard to see yet more
scenery...we'd rather be in a boat, plane, the back of a
camel...whatever, just not killing ourselves hahaha...lazy...no, but
one of those times where you discover something about yourself. Having
said that...the hikes were amazing and I'd recommend them to anyone who
can take a bit of physical work!
SO...back in our favorite
queenstown, filled with activities, people, shops, and fun stuff. We
arrived back in time to get to a super 14 pre-season match between
Anton Olivers Otago Highlanders and the Waikado Cheifs. Gorgeous field
with a surreal backdrop of jagged mountains...I was in heaven with my
favorite person by my side, a 6-pack, and a top level rugby game
(although the rugby was a little rusty I think!). What a day...what a
week!!!!
We spent today organizing Australia on our for once
free-e-mail at the hostel we're at. We got books from a second hand
store, had pizza hut and bought some chicken and stuffing to cook
tonight...and had a beautiful few hours on the beach where it got hot
enough even for Julia to venture into the cold lake for a refreshing
dip. This town is a happening place...on the touristy side of
things...but still amazing!! We leave to Australia tomorrow...to
Cairns for a scuba/sailing experience...then off to (hopefully) see my
main man Dan (and Peta) in Adelaide!!
I hope you're all well and
this update isn't too long and boring!! Love NZ...wish we had more $
while here...but we've done it in style all the same!!
Til we meet again in the world of cyber...be well!
Tyler
