Bologna – red wine on a beer budget

Bologna. Locals call it “la rossa” (the red one), and “la grossa” (the fat one), for good reason. Bologna is known for the red brick arcades that span the city. The home of Bolognese, this is also a city that’s known for food. But there’s a catch. All that decadence doesn’t come cheap. So how can you see (and eat) the best of Bologna without blowing your budget? Here are my top tips for a cheap and cheerful day- and night- out.
9am
Coffee is not a luxury in Italy – it’s a necessity – so head to a bar and throw back an espresso like the locals. If you’re more of a cappuccino person, that’s ok too – before midday. Order a milky coffee after 12pm and you’ll mark yourself out as a tourist (and the barista may even refuse to make it for you!)
10am
Burn off that pastry before lunch with a walk to the Church of San Luca. Situated high on a hill, it's a workout but it's all worth it when you see the city unfold below you. Absolute (sweaty) bliss.
12pm
There’s no shortage of places to eat in Bologna. If you’re on the go, grab a slice from the Pizzeria Due Torri, right in the centre of town. Just follow your nose (and the line of locals). If a sit down meal is more your thing, try the Osteria dell’Orso, a small eatery with no written menu. The waiters will tell you the specials on the day. Pro tip: wherever you go, never order Spaghetti Bolognese – it doesn’t exist in Bologna. Instead, try the traditional ragu’ (the real deal).
3pm Travelling in Italy without eating gelato is like watching an Italian talk without using their hands – it’s possible, but you’ll miss out on the full experience. For the true gelato lover, there is only one choice – the Sorbetteria Castiglione. Their chocolate hazelnut is out of this world.
7pm
Relax with an aperitivo – this budget-friendly tradition dictates that you buy a drink and snack on a smorgasbord of food provided by the bar. These aren’t your typical bar snacks. The quality varies but the spread usually includes breads, antipasto, salads and fruit. Try Caffe Zamboni (ADD) in the heart of the student quarter.
10pm
If you still have energy left to burn, dance the night away at one of Bologna’s night spots. Try Arteria, an underground cocktail bar with a student vibe and live music.
With all the major sights within walking distance, Bologna is the perfect stopover on our Italian adventure. And best of all, it’s off the beaten track, so you won’t have to share that gelataria with the crowds. Bellissimo!