The smiles of Africa
MALAWI | Thursday, 8 May 2014 | Views [107] | Scholarship Entry
A man wearing a tattered suit shouts “buy, buy, buy” as he waves toothpaste tubes in the air. “This toothpaste will give you the most beautiful smile in Africa.”
I’m strolling around a small market just outside a campsite on the banks of Lake Malawi. The salesman is very convincing but his appearance suggests that he is not a great ambassador for his product. He is missing most of his front teeth, his breath stinks and his remaining teeth are decaying. It’s obvious he has never used dental products before.
I politely decline a sample from the toothpaste man and in a bid to escape his grasp I slip into a nearby hut. I’m greeted with an amazing display of Malawi chairs, tribal masks and animal carvings.
“Welcome to my shop. My name is Kingfisher” I spin around and see a wood carver working on an intricate sculpture.
We chat for a while and he shows me his skilful creations. It seems he is more focused on making a friend than a sale.
Without any pressure I decide to negotiate with Kingfisher for him to produce a carving which features the famous big 5 game animals of Africa. The haggling is conducted in a friendly manner. We are both happy with the agreement.
However, when I return the next day I’m shocked by the size of the piece. It is 6 feet tall! I tell Kingfisher that it’s impossible for me to take the carving home. I argue that we agreed on a much smaller piece. The mood quickly changes. Kingfisher becomes upset saying that he worked all night without sleep.
He then speaks in his native Chichewan and within seconds two of his big buddies are standing at the entrance to the hut. They both carry razor sharp carving tools that glisten in the sun. Kingfisher suddenly holds the upper hand in the negotiation.
“How did I end up here” I think to myself.
Not wanting the situation to turn nasty, I plead with Kingfisher to remain calm. There had clearly been a big misunderstanding. I reassure Kingfisher he will get his money as long as I can pick something else from his collection.
After an uneasy silence, he eventually agrees. I choose the nearest carvings of an elephant and a lion. Kingfisher ponders for a moment and then nods.
I hand over the money but as I head for the door Kingfisher blocks my path. He shakes my hand and gifts me the remaining 3 pieces to complete my big 5 animal set.
“Thank you my friend. I like you so I give you special price”. His broad smile would have made the toothpasteman proud. Kingfisher had struck a good deal.
Tags: 2014 Travel Writing Scholarship - Euro Roadtrip
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