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Taro's Travels

The Perils of Power

INDIA | Saturday, 30 December 2006 | Views [1007]

That he was on holiday did not stop the UK electrical engineer from burbling enthusiatically on the dangers of electricity; the Australian sparky he was conversing at was less effusive. Their group and mine were sharing a bus back from the Mekong River to Saigon, and the ride back was filled with talk of skin resistance (drops to zero when wet), the merits of UK plugs (the ground pin is longer than the others and the shaft of the pins are insulated), what to do when you dig up electrical cables (get the hell out of the hole - supply of electricity will resume shortly) and suchlike. Most of the rest of the bus sat cringing in silent laughter, as though he'd been providing Too Much Information on something completely anorakish like twitching or trainspotting. I found it rather interesting (but then I am anorak) and having once allegedly done a year and a half of Computer/Electrical Engineering (that's what it says on the inglorious academic transcript) I was at least able to follow along and interject vaguely sensible questions.

There is no shortage of electrical dangers for a traveller to get passionate about: catenaries of loosely strung cable threatening to garotte pedestrians of average height, spliced wires in bathrooms (most duct-taped but some just twisted bare copper), strangling vines slowly wrestling poles and cables to the ground, second-storey residents drying their washing on adjacent telephone lines, or even just the general lack of ground pins on most electrical equipment.

In Sauraha, many houses had gerry-rigged connections to the power lines. This was usually just a couple of hooks strung over the upper and lower power line, perhaps attached to a piece of bamboo to keep things stabilised and easily removable. In Kolkata, there are actually signs which urge the reporting of power theft.

Compared with elsewhere, blackouts have been fairly common in West Asia. Hille (and surrounding villages) were without power owing to a landslide months earlier. Some places such as Kathmandu, Kolkata, or Pokhara, have sporadic blackouts. Come nightfall in Sauraha or Darjeeling, however, it was almost guaranteed that electricity would fail for an hour or three while demand was high. Businesses lucky enough to have back-up generators or uninterruptable power supplies could rely on them for a while (though power was not always restored in time); other places would use candles or dim battery-operated fluorescent lights.

In Rabongla the enjoyment of a room with TV and hot water (there was a negligible difference in cost between a nice-ish room, and what can only be politely described as a complete $#!+#ole) was somewhat marred by the fact that power was rarely available to light the TV or heat the water. When power was finally restored, an electrical fault soon made the use of the heater unadvisable - there was actually a jet of blue flame coming from one of the taps! I winced in anticipation as the hotel employee calmly walked across the water-soaked bathroom floor and reached for the switch. When flicking the switch had no effect on the fire, his next step was to unplug the heater.

I was a little shocked that he wasn't.

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