The French Way

The setting: Champs Elysees in Paris, France. The scene: a normal South African girl is trying to absorb France at its snobbiest, and therefore its best.

Already feeling slightly frumpy just because I’m not French, I spotted a woman walking in the opposite direction. She was wearing jeans, a plain black top and flat ballet pumps. Her only accessory was a huge Rottweiler with a spiky collar and aglossy black coat.

She is my most vivid recollection when people ask me, “So what are the French like?” Classy, stylish, cheeky and assertive.

Having lived in Provence for the past six months, I was already used to the French way.

French people are not unfriendly. They’re just not interested in the idea that they should be grateful for the tourism that floods their country.

Paris alone sees around 27 million foreign tourists every year. For people who just want to get on with their lives, can you imagine how disruptive that is? For travellers, the trick is to know who to ask for help, and how to ask for it.

Firstly, learn a little French. Bonjour/Bonsoir madame/monsieur/mademoiselle (Good day/evening ma’am/sir/miss); Pardon, je ne comprends pas (I’m sorry, I don’t understand); as well as some basic words you can turn into questions just with your tone (Le metro? Les toilettes?) will do. And always, always be polite, as it’s a quality that transcends cultures.

Secondly, have a game plan. Paris is built in twenty arrondisements. Check a map, decide what you’d like to do on a particular day (remember to call to check opening times) and write it all down on a little notepad.

Note that I said a ‘little’ notepad like the kind you use for your shopping list. Don’t write your itinerary down on a big legal notepad. People will notice that you’re a tourist.

Which brings me to: thirdly, at least try to look like you belong. There is absolutely nothing wrong with being a tourist but you’re in Paris, which is a city of fashion and style. Wrap a silk scarf around your neck. Wear a funky and trendy pair of shades.

You’ll feel less like a slob when sitting next to a group of Parisiens at the corner coffee shop, I can promise you that.

Lastly, while in Paris, walk as much as you can. They say it’s the city of love and you will fall in love with it.

If you’re looking for the best introduction to your new love, start at the Louvre and walk along the Seine towards the Eiffel Tower. It’s only a couple of kilometres and worth every step. The moment that you arrive at the Champs de Mars and step out from under the canopy of trees only to be confronted with the Eiffel Tower is pure Paris magic.