Mexican utopia

Xpu Ha beach in Quintana Roo, Mexico is hard to write about. I found myself reluctant to write about it in the first place, because it’s one of those perfect, small, quiet places that it’s tempting to keep to yourself. It’s also the kind of beach utopia that’s difficult to describe without resorting to cliché – palm-fringed (check), soft white sand (check), sparkling turquoise waters (check).

One thing that makes it easier to share the secret, however, is the knowledge that this stretch of the Mexican coastline has tens, if not hundreds, of equallly stunning beaches. Driving north along the Tulum-Cancun highway, almost any right turn will lead you to one. As all beaches are public in this part of Mexico, hotels often stake their claim by controlling access from highway to beach. However, most hotels will let you use “their” section of beach for the price of a drink or lunch. Those on seriously tight budgets, will, with a little patience, find a way—at Xpu Ha, for example, there is one public road down to the beach (if you can find it).

Xpu Ha’s 2km stretch of flawless white sand drops gently off into calm, warm water. You can snorkel off the beach – the reefs are mostly dead due to development and hurricanes, but there are tons of tropical fish to be seen just a few metres out, & you might even spot a ray or a sea turtle. Boats trips out to the living reef just offshore are cheap and plentiful. In the unlikely even you get bored of the beach there are several beautiful swimming cenotes (natural freshwater sinkholes) within walking distance.

At the north end is Hotel Esencia, steeped in understated, effortless elegance. The rooms, grounds, food and service are flawless, without tipping over into ostentation. Of course, this sort of quiet grandeur doesn’t come cheap - rooms starti at $750 a night. Next door is the Al Cielo, which, while still deluxe, is a little scruffier, but has excellent happy hour fresh fruit daiquiris. Accommodations continue to decline in luxury as you move south down the beach – a huge all-inclusive 4-star resort, a few cabins and finally, at the south end, some cheap but not that cheerful beach huts at around $10 a night.

Regardless of where you stay, when you step out onto that beach, you’re in 5 star luxury. It’s almost eerily perfect – during my visit there was not a gust of wind, nor a sand fly or a jellyfish to be seen. The only word of warning: once you’ve been to Xpu Ha, no other beach is ever likely to measure up.