open eyes, open heart, open mind - transformative travel

Morocco. Magic & beauty take you by one hand, din & grime by the other – and lead you on a journey into an unknown culture, of which you have only ever dreamt. The medina (old city quarters) conjures what one most expects of Morocco. Teeming with life, its labyrinthine paths take you past pulsing artisan workshops and vats of supersaturated dyes where the ubiquitous leather babouche (slippers) are brought to life; past local musicians entrancing you with their tunes and enticing your soul to dance; past the grisly views of hanging carcasses and goat heads, boiling vats of snails waiting to be slurped up noisily, and through the intoxicating haze that sets upon the food market at dusk.

Morocco's countryside provides a welcome respite from the raucous souks and medinas of the big cities. Exploring the mountain ranges and agricultural regions on foot and by grande taxi draws you into the land, to the people working the land, and to the children who chase you for a few coins or a photo.

The fertile oases - palmeraie - around the villages in the south break the desert landscape with startling bursts of green. Walking the 13km from Tinehrir to the Todra Gorge uncovers a hive of agricultural activity irrigated by the gorge's water source and tended by the local Berber residents. The neighbouring gorge – the Dades - is laced by a road known for its hairpin bends, which weave through amazing rock formations. We leave Boulmane du Dades at full capacity - Berber music blaring and friendly banter between the passengers. We are crammed into the back seat of an old Peugot station wagon: nine plus driver - two in the front, four in the middle, three in the back. At every stop we assume that we are dropping passengers off but instead another few pile in. Two in the boot. Four on the roof with our bags. And finally, an additional passenger who pushes the driver to sit on his gear stick (ouch!). Insanity! Or 'Mama Africa' as one of the boot passengers gleefully sings out to the open road behind him… Its times like this that you hold on tight, pray that your travel insurance is extra comprehensive and clutch your moonstone. We arrive safely - Hamdulallah (thanks be to God) – and to a wonderful weekend of Berber hospitality.

But what of the frustrations which overpopulate the online forums? Over eager hostel owners, 'special' prices, cultural differences that challenge Western sensibilities, men constantly vying for your attention? Visiting Morocco plunges you into an unknown culture. This plunge demands a good balance of trust and vigilance; a sense of perspective; and a willingness to break your budget because prices seldom are what you ever agree upon. Calibrating oneself on all three measures takes some time, but openness is met with rich reward, an exhilarating adventure, and a window into a world which is magnificently different from anything that you have ever experienced. Mama Africa!