Ontheroad

Proximity often breeds lack of allure. The further away a destination, or unfamiliar a language and culture, the more exotic an experience it promises for many travellers. Having explored many places which have etched themselves on the travel map, I finally settled on the intriguing town of Benares. Defying the cliché of remoteness, Benares has consumed my senses as a traveller and thrown fresh aspects beyond my previous knowledge and ability to understand a culture that I have seemingly been brought up in.
The business of death that feeds the burgeoning life on the ghats has established itself as one of my most serrated memories. The smell of faeces, food and faith hangs heavily in the air. Though strong and pervasive, these elements float nonchalantly for one to absorb, assimilate and accept. With bovine blessings caked under my weary flip-flops, I manoeuvre past fly swatting cows, mangy dogs and the market banter to be soaked in 5000 years of history and tread towards the legendary ghats. The 43 degrees of Indian summer heat radiating from everything only fuels my spirit.
The Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are the key venues where Hindus perform the last rites – the surest way to attain Nirvana. A full-fledged industry of pyre wood, embellished sheets, bamboo ladders and other ingredients lines the streets. Odd jobs such a ‘the last photograph’ exist as flourishing trades where talent is put to use to click the last photograph of the dead. Relatives huddle together near the pyre for memory or evidence for one last commemoration. Even the most staid event of human finality is met with usualness by the old and young both. It’s said that almost 200- 250 pyres are lit each day with the relatives of the dead earnestly struggling to find a spot to conclude the last ‘nirvanic’ wish for many.
Though there is an ever looming poignant take on life and death, there are simpler adventures in the city one can embark on. The variety of street food, for example, is sure to take you on a gastronomic escapade. If travelling to Benares, one can be sure to park the calorie guilt aside and plunge into the local-ness of sumptuous delights. As the narrow lanes start to bathe in the morning light, one of the first few things which greets you and is then bound to trail you like an unavoidable companion through the day, is a good cup of tea. It not only initiates conversations, but also forges resilient bonds between people. Topics like politics, death, drugs, flesh eating ‘baba’s and lost love flow cheerfully – disheartening situations brushed away effortlessly by the warm concoction and some friends.
Visitors seem to have very extreme reactions towards the city of Benares – abhor or adore! It’s the heady mix of death, faith, music, food, rituals and people that makes this city so sure in its character but leaves me baffled.