After a brief trip back to Manchester (congratulations Angela and Darren!), we flew on down to San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica.
(It´s actually embarrassing how much geography I am learning on this
trip but yes, I can now name the capitals of the countries we´ve
visited!) Initial impressions were that the city was fairly difficult
to distinguish from Miami where we´d had a layover the night before: same restaurants, same languages, but San Jose
doesn´t have a beach. We decided to head straight off to the Atlantic
coast and see if we could see some of Costa Rica´s famous wildlife.
Tortuguero
is a tiny town situated on a spit of land between the ocean and the
network of canals and waterways that extend into the rainforest and
banana plantations. There are no roads either to the town or in the
town. You have to get boats over there and once you´re in the town,
everyone walks or uses quadbikes. The town´s major draw though is that
it sits on the edge of the Tortuguero National Park and is on a long
beach (partially included in the park), which is one of the biggest sea
turtle nesting sites in the world.
Unfortunately
we were not there for prime nesting season, when it is possible to get
guided night tours to see the turtles. Instead we had to settle for an
early morning canoe trip into the park with an eagle-eyed guide who was
able to show us howler, spider and white-faced monkeys, caimans,
hummingbirds, herons, kingfishers, hawks, mud turtles, lizards and blue
morpho butterflies. I´ve probably missed some things out but I think
you get the picture. Highlights included the territorial howler monkeys
screeching at each other from trees on either side of the river right
above our heads and the Jesus Christ lizard, so named as it can run
across the water. We also saw a caiman (a small relative of the
crocodile) swimming in the river, as opposed to half-buried in the mud,
which was cool.
So
having got our fill of Caribbean chicken and fish dishes, watched a
local football match and walked along the beach in the pitch black
during a thunderstorm looking unsuccessfully for turtles, we decided to
head straight from Tortuguero to another national park inland called
Monteverde.