Yosemite West to Lone Pine
Yes, there really is a town called Lone Pine, but more of that later.
Up early today as we have a fair way to go and a few places to stop at. Cleared the room, car packed and on the road by 8.15!
Down the road to Yosemite Valley, one last stop at Tunnel View - without the hoards of Asian tourists - it was lovely. The roads were quiet and we reached the Valley floor without any problem. On the way we noticed a bright red sign "Speeding kills bears". Apparently the Park Authorities place one of these at the site of every bear fatality plus, in advance, a mobile illuminated sign warning of the dangers of speeding to animals. The speed limits are low, typically 35mph and 20mph in some areas though they do seem to be largely ignored, I think we are the only people to obey these limits, certainly judging by the tailbacks we cause!
A few more photos in the morning light, nice and cool here now; only 60F, quite a change from yesterday. Saw a few mule deer families including a buck with huge antlers, but no bears. On down the Valley to join the road heading East, a narrow winding road climbing all the time, passing 1,000 foot markers until we reached 8,000 feet and a gas station at Crane Flats, to top up our tank. A lovely drive through the forest with occasional glimpses of valleys and meadows beyond.
The road continued up, a little wider now, and in excellent condition, past more pine trees, they do have a lot of forest here. Out into the open at Tuolumne Meadows, a huge expanse of grassland and then to a memorial turnout, Olmsted Point. We stopped here, along with many campers, cars and bikers with their vintage Harley Davidsons, quite bustling. Anyway the views were amazing, back down the Yosemite Valley, (we had gone in a large loop and now looked back down the valley from the other side). High up, around 9,000 feet, the trees were sparse and stunted, lots of huge boulders and glacier polished rock slopes. Fascinating, and the sun was still shining! The drive was great, we really enjoyed the scenery and the 'open road'.
Finally on to the Park exit at Tioga Pass, at 9,945, the highest road pass in the US. Here we bought an annual pass for all US National Parks and Forests which will work out cheaper than paying at each park we enter, though the pass did cost US80!
A dramatic change of scenery, this is the High Sierra and at this altitude trees are smaller and further apart, more rocks and scrub. The road dropped steeply, still winding its way down until we hit Highway 395, the road South.
It too gradually dropped in altitude, passing through mile after mile of open semi-desert. We diverted through Mammoth Lakes for Ruth to find the Devil's Post Pile, a remnant of the areas volcanic past, a 100 foot cliff of columnar basalt, similar to the giants causeway in Ireland. We did have to drive 14 miles down (and back) a very steep narrow road to get there plus a mile walk at the end in 90F heat. Still, it was worth it, the columns are spectacular. I followed the trail to the top of the cliff to see the glacier polished hexagonal tops of the columns - ruth retired to the car - it was hot!
Back to the highway, we continued through the semi desert, losing altitude all the time, still in temperatures of 90F plus, thank goodness for aircon! Huge clouds were building during our journey south, but no rain, just heat! The first major settlement we arrived at, Bishop, was a long string of buildings, stretched along the highway, and very ordinary. We had given a lift to two guys at the Devils Post Pile and dropped them at Mammoth Ski Resort and they recommended a bakery in Bishop called Schott's, so we had to stop and have a look. It was a cake wonderland, all sorts of cakes, biscuits and confectionary and of course, we had to buy a few things and try the ice cream; very sweet but delicious.
Another hour on the highway brought us to Lone Pine, altitude 3,700 feet, and our hotel, the Historic Dow Hotel. Lone Pine's claim to fame is that it hosted many western movies, particularly featuring John Wayne, and there is a museum illustrating the town's film past.
The hotel has photographs of many of the stars of the old westerns, including signed copies (as do many of the restaurants nearby) lining the walls and corridors. The hotel is a bit of a throwback to the 1950s, the rooms are small but comfortable. We ate at a nearby grill, the meals well cooked, large and just ok, nothing earth shattering, but the Californian wine was good.
So, tomorrow, Death Valley.
