Ok, when last I left I was in Udaipur. Luckily for me when I boarded the bus for this city I managed to bump into 5 girls who had just finished up working at the Asia Games, so did a quick substitute of travel buddies.
Udaipur is the pick of Rajasthan cities, as it is more beautiful (centre is a lake with 2 palaces that float atop) and a bit more modern with facilities etc.
On the 2nd night we opted for a night on the town, so I dutifully took my new companions to a local disco. As we walked in it was plain to see that the sight of 5 females was uncustomary in these places. So we sauntered to the bar and grabbed our drinks, watching as the local lads fidgeted and were not quite sure what to do. Then all of a sudden I was approached by a number and as they grabbed for my hand asked me to dance, while the 5 girls stood idle at the bar! This place is strange. Their night composed of watching themselves dance in the mirror... strange...
(and this was just an ordinary disco)
Having made my mind to venture back south I made use of India's transport and hitched a Bus/Plane/Train journey to take me down to Kerala. Kerala's slogan is "God's Own Country" and it can be seen on any spare space available. For once though - I had to agree. The land immediately gives way to lush fertile greenery (relief from the desert). With canopies of palms and ferns that line the flowing rivers and rushes down to the sandy beaches.
I pulled into Varkala - a beautiful beach town that has its restaurant lined clifftops looking out over the Arabian Sea, with the beach beneath it - complete with No Hassle!! I found that happiness was ordering an American Breakfast (I know, cop out, but wait for it) from Cafe Del Mar, that consisted of 2 big hash browns (fills a dinner plate), 2 fried eggs, grilled tomato, 4 X toast, jam, chicken sausage, fruit salad and yoghurt, pot of coffee and fresh pineapple juice whilst overlooking the Arabian Sea from on the clifftop... Ahh this was a holiday!
After spending some days doing nothing but soaking up the sun on the beach at Varkala, I moved on to Kollam where I ran into 4 Irish guys who - like me - were in search for a bar as everywhere else was shut (Sunday). We managed to find a good local and were even surprised to find Kathakali dancing performance upstairs (a local prestigious dance ceremony).
From Kollam we all jumped onto a backwater cruise bound for Allepy. However we thwarted our own plans by deciding to stop off halfway at Amma's Ashram (the woman who hugs everyone). In the ashram we ran into slightly eccentric people all walking around in white robes and we were strictly told there was no alcohol, no meat, no leaving the ashram, no this no that.. ahh! It was an experience - especially when Amma started her devotional singing of a thousand names of God.. but we were happy to escape the clutches of this cult the next day and board back on our boat.
Arriving in Allepy, the site of freely sold beer made our decision for a decent night of things. During which one of them who is a head chef offered a position in his Irish restaurant for when I arrive in Ireland, in my state I quickly accepted. This decision is yet to be seen whether it was wise. But I can whip up some fantastic El Paso packet Burrito's!
We moved on again to a place called Kochi - where we ferried across to our island of Fort Cochin. At this stage we also caught up with a couple of the girls I'd met in Udaipur. This is a very nice chilled out island. A place where you pick your seafood from the fishmongers on the beach and take it to a nearby shack for them to cook it for you.. very nice.
I rented myself a beat up bicycle for a day and took another ferry to a near-by island. I was riding in search of a tranquil beach from which to try and escape the hangover that had me firmly in it's clutches. As my rusty bike and I pedalled the 20km to the beach (exercise I am currently not accustomed to), the locals would spot me and their faces would split into big grins as they waved and yelled out Hello!
The beach did prove to be very relaxing.. until about 4pm when busload after busload of Indians appeared and started filling the beach. Apparently I had come on a big celebratory day for Kerala where people would travel for miles and miles to get to a temple close by, and then the beach. Many had never seen the sea before so it was happily chaotic.
On my ride back in the dark (no street lights - or reflectors on my old bike), I was constantly in danger of being run off the road by wayward speeding busses and other vehicles that gave scant regard for the light situation, the road rules and more importantly, bicycles. On arrival at the ferry I was treated like some sort of celebrity by those who had seen me on the beach or cycling and were amazed I dared even do it. They even paid for my ferry ticket!
As I write this I am now preparing to leave for Sri Lanka. Not without it's own troubles in organising. I was told today there is not a single bus/train available to Bangalore (the airport I need). My trip to Sri Lanka was looking very tenuous. At the last minute I found someone who found one last seat I could take - a terrible seat on a terrible bus, but I am just so happy. As much as all of India has left an impression on me and I have enjoyed it - I feel I need to de-Indiafy. And I think putting India first on my places to visit was a good idea - I'm sure I'll now appreciate everything in other countries all that much more, especially the small things like basic hygiene, bins etc etc.
So, on to Sri Lanka. Yep, it's fast becoming extremely unsafe there, so let's hope they don't concern themselves with a lone traveller just looking for some cool beaches, awesome mountains and other travellers not trying to start any revolutions...
