explore

I traveled quite often to make a documentary on Tibetan film and music industry to Dharamsala , India, which is headquarters to Tibetan government in exile and home to many Tibetans. I traveled by bus with an overnight journey from New Delhi to Dharamsala. One day I woke up early and saw something that aroused my interest. Camouflaged between the mountains was a fort. I was sure next time I will go here.

Next time I hired a cab from Dharamsala. The fort is called Kangra Fort. It is around 20 kilometers from the town of Dharamsala in town of Kangra. It was built by Hindu rulers of India. I researched about it that day on my phone as the driver took me there with my friends.

It is the largest fort in the Himalayas and probably the oldest dated fort in India. My research told me - Fort was built by the royal Rajput family of Kangra -the Katoch dynasty, which traces its origins to the ancient Trigarta Kingdom, mentioned in the Mahabharata epic. Katoch is the name of a Rajput clan belonging to the Chandravanshi lineage.The Katoch dynasty is considered to be the oldest surviving royal dynasty in the world. They have been mentioned in the Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata and the second mention is in the recorded history of Alexander the Great's war records. Even the fort finds a mention there.

After an hours drive I finally reached. A huge door welcomed me . As I climbed up the stairs I realized that it was also used for the elephants to travel up. The size of the stairs was big, the height of each step was less. As I looked at the statues made on the walls their heads and faces had been cut. Perhaps by the Muslim rulers who had come here later. Then came a temple on the first floor. The temple had beautiful inlay work and carvings on the wall. Then came a "hamam" , bathing place for royals. You could see that perhaps the water used to come from this lion headed fountain.On the topmost floor was a breathtaking view. You could see the entire town.

After that we wentto Maharaja Sansar Chand Katoch Museum run by the Royal Family of Kangra. If you do more research you will find that relatives of this family live till today. How real the claim is no one can be sure of. Perhaps the only reality are the walls of Kangra Fort- which was first under Rajputs then Mughals then Britishers who ruled in India. Many rulers came and went , and fort of Kangra speaks of the the stories -known , unknown and told , untold.