The last couple of weeks have been fairly uneventful so I’m afraid this entry is rather less exciting than previous ones, though mercifully shorter…
Perhaps the most interesting news is that after we left the march for McLeod, our fellow marchers remained in Delhi to await the arrival of the official Olympic Torch on April 17. However, at least 16,000 police (mostly Indian but some Chinese) were mobilized for the event, and my friends were arrested as a precautionary measure and detained for 27 hours. I asked the marchers to email me updates and quotes for the mag, and one American guy, Lex Pelger, sent me an hilarious account. Apparently the westerners were among 58 being held at the jail, where they were permitted to play badminton and get chai from the jail canteen, whilst the policemen even brought them milk, chocolate and ciggies from nearby shops. However that evening a head count was taken – only to discover that 11 had escaped during the day! At that point, in Lex’s words: “they went from being lovable old uncles to ‘I’m going to shoot you and take away your bathroom rights.’” One escapee even had the nerve to return and visit her friends the next day!! The poor Tibetans were given 14 day sentences, but most were released within three days.
Some rather sad news is that all westerners have been kicked off the march. They have been permitted to march to Nainital in Uttar Pradesh, which they should reach within the next couple of days, then it’s bye bye. I must say I don’t think the organising committee has treated them entirely fairly. During the build up there was a desperate recruitment drive for both Tibetan and western supporters, and whilst for marchers such as myself, who joined a bit at a time, it’s not the end of the world, some had planned to march all the way to the Tibetan border. One guy flew from Canada to take part and film a documentary on the march, with which he hoped to raise funds to sponsor a Tibetan student in Canada. The problem, I think, is that the committee is comprised of five NGOs, all with conflicting objectives, which was obviously a recipe for disaster and the thing has been halted, chopped and changed so many times – you never know what’s going to happen from hour to hour - never mind day to day.
Spent my first few days back in McLeod recovering from the march and then got struck down with an intestinal parasite right on deadline for Contact, which wasn’t good. My little friend’s official name is Giardia, although on my room mate Jenna’s advice I generally refer to him as Lloyd. It hasn’t been much fun having him around; in fact he has laid me really quite low which made getting the magazine out a real struggle. Had to literally do it an hour at a time, whenever I was able, but had to get on with it as I’ve been writing most of the thing as well as editing it, and there was nobody else to take over. Add to that the frequent internet and computer problems you expect in India and you have a challenging situation. Thankfully I finally finished it yesterday, so can relax a bit and enjoy my last couple of days in McLeod. I’m rather proud that my parasite is listed in the Lonely Planet, and that I can now start ticking off unpleasant diseases as well as hotels and restaurants. I’ve also just bumped into an English guy who has lived in India for 20 years, and is consequently a walking encyclopedia of all things nasty, who reassured me that I probably also have a form of dysentery. India: 'making Brits puke since 1612.'
On a brighter note our friend count, which hit an all time low a couple of weeks ago, has increased with some really cool people passing through over the last week or so, some of whom I hope to catch up with in Kathmandu.
So the time has almost come for me to leave this beautiful town. In fact, were it not for Lloyd I would have taken off to Amritsar yesterday where a 2.5 mile walk for Tibet, organised by the local Sikh community, took place, culminating in a candle light vigil at the Golden Temple which would have been amazing. Was disappointed I couldn’t go, as I’d planned to visit the Punjab during these few days anyway so it would have worked out perfectly, but if I have to be sick I’d rather be somewhere familiar where I have lovely friends to look after me if necessary. But Lloyd being well I plan to embark on the three day trip to Kathmandu (probably via Delhi) in a couple of days time.
I’m certainly going to miss this place. It is so stunning. Every day I’m woken by warm sunlight streaming through my window to the sight of McLeod tumbling down the mountainside, snowy peaks, colourful prayer flags illuminated by sunshine – and Jenna’s sacred hammock on our balcony. There is always so much going on here and everyone you meet is lovely (I mean travelers and some Tibetans. The Indian guys are quite frankly a pain in the arse) and the weather is just perfect. It’s slightly cooler and far fresher than Delhi, but still well into the 80s (around 30C) most days. Tomorrow I hope to take lots of photos (which I will upload I promise) many of which are likely to feature Carpe Diem, a house of ill repute which has been my home for the last four months.
Well think that’s about it. Told you it was a boring one. Speak soon, Love Soph XXX
