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Che's Revenge

My Travel Writing Scholarship 2011 entry - Journey in an Unknown Culture

WORLDWIDE | Monday, 28 March 2011 | Views [188] | Scholarship Entry

Within the first moments of my arrival to the protest, I am reeling. Dozens of young Argentine activists are milling about like moths around a speaker who is discussing something through a megaphone and bathed in an aura of electric greenish-blue light emanating from the front of the ancient university building.

This is the evocative leftist branch of the University of Buenos Aires- a place where the legacy of Argentine revolutionary Che Guevara is still coursing like blood through the veins of the decaying institution. I try not to think about how as a yanqui, my country historically represents just the sort of international interference in Latin American affairs that the speaker is railing against.

As I jostle through the crowd of young protesters toward the entrance, the scene of focused intensity is amplified by the dizzying smell of cigarettes and sweat lingering in the humid air. Inside, the cinder block walls that make up the hallways are crumbling and intimate groups of students engaged in fervent discussion look like they were transported from the sixties era of political ferment.

Weeks later, I meet Hector in the quiet courtyard of the university. A young man with matted hair and an exquisite smile, Hector has been planting vegetables on a patch of land in the university’s courtyard ever since he has been hired as a gardener.
“We believe that everyone should have the same amount of food to eat and that no one should ever have to go hungry", Hector explains as he picks up a few fresh-looking carrots out of the soil and shakes the dirt off of them. As he works, I notice that his tattered pants are practically falling off of his thin frame.

I listen mesmerized as he nonchalantly describes hunger, poverty, disease in the federal capital- aspects of street life that I will never truly understand. Hector admonishes the capitalist system for being all about "money, money, money”. Before my astonished eyes, the 21st century socialist goes on to wrap up the radishes, carrots, and parsley each separately in a newspaper and hands them to me ceremoniously as a vegetable bouquet of flowers.


It feels inappropriate that I, representing American wealth and affluence, should accept a gift from him. However, as dusk sets in and luminous processions of students make their way out onto the streets again, I walk home with the fresh produce in my hand and overwhelmed by an unbearable emotion.


It’s difficult to say whether it is the personality of the individual or the atmosphere that causes my revelation. I had been determined not to fall under the spell of the university. However it is precisely in this moment that I am filled with a new energy and a new hope; maybe the blended tapestry of the human race could one day reach mutual understanding, after all. This is Che’s Revenge: the possibly of being permeated by one’s surroundings to the point of being changed forever. 

Tags: #2011writing, travel writing scholarship 2011

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