The Participant Observer

Festivals, called matsuri, are big in Japan. Historically matsuri is meant ‘to worship’ or ‘to serve.’ Nowadays, though, the term is synonymous with ‘festivals,’ much-anticipated events occurring regionally, nationally and all throughout the year in Japan. They were first celebrated amongst small communities of people who lived and worked the fields together, from dusk to dawn and governed by the seasons. Through drumming, chanting, and creating elaborate decorations, communities celebrated fruitful harvests and prayed to kami ‘Shinto gods’ with heartfelt devotion. Through props and practices they created environments elevated beyond the ordinary into ritualistic realms. I was eager to find this passionate devotion to community and nature, this special funiki ‘atmosphere’ that so many Japanese natives spoke of when I asked them to describe their most enjoyable festival memories.

So I rode a train out into Japan’s countryside, to a small rural village known for taiko drumming. In the shadow of the village schoolhouse stood onlookers to a great circle of performers, who stood confidently under the weight of massive, two-sided drums. Most were grown men, but I soon noticed boys and a few girls hovering at the circle’s far edge, striking their own smaller drums and wearing headbands and happi ‘longcoats’ like the men. I made my way around the circle, crouching down to speak with who I learned was the village’s taiko teacher.

What makes a festival, I asked in Japanese.

The funiki, he replied. The atmosphere. When we pull our headbands tight, we say to ourselves Ganbaruze ‘I’ll do my very best.’

His answer was perfect. Festivals are made visually appealing through colorful decoration, but the true meaning of matsuri in rooted in intention. Festival performers find their devotion internally, and by performing together in unison they create an atmosphere stemming from the historical notions of celebration.

I sat back on my heels, watching the circle of performers and listening to the heavy beats contentedly as the autumn sun lowered beyond the mountains.

If you find yourself navigating across Japan, attend any and all festivals you can find. Speak with locals, participate in celebration, and appreciate small interactions in extraordinary environments. Memories are best when shared, passed down to willing learners.