Unexpected delights

We weren’t prepared for Batanes. We read reviews about these islands scattered at the northernmost part of the Philippines, and we knew that there would be mountains and hills and sharp cliffs. People have called Basco, Sabtang and Itbayat, the three largest and inhabited of all 10 islands, as a cross between New Zealand and Scotland. But we didn’t realize that we would be traversing vastly different terrains all in one day. From hopping across volcanic boulders along the seashore in the morning, we’d be watching the Pacific Ocean waves try to engulf the cliff sides in the afternoon. By sunset, we’d be climbing endless hills armed with nothing but floral dresses and flimsy sandals.

Like I said, not prepared.

Batanes is an enchantment, nonetheless. Like entering a fairy tale or a nursery rhyme where you could believe that there are trolls and gnomes in the woods. The stone houses with thatched roofs stand mighty against a blank sky. They are used to withstand the many storms that enter the Philippine archipelago, with Batanes as either first or last stop.

On the second day, after visiting the Sabtang island with its rocky beaches and hills with panoramic views, the humid weather started to take a toll on me. I wanted to swim on the Sabtang beach but there wasn’t enough time. In my desperation, I asked my tour guide if there was a place where I could swim without being swept away by ferocious waves and she took me to what they charmingly call the Blue Lagoon.

Found alongside the road that connects the towns of Mahatao and Ivana, the lagoon is sheltered by cliffs. A small path hidden by shrubs by the side of the road leads down a steep slope toward this natural pool, which is also called the Spanish Lagoon because it used to be the private pool of Spanish priests. They used to believe that it can heal illnesses and restore youth. Who would have thought that I would end up swimming in a lagoon of youth in the heart of a rugged island?

The Blue Lagoon is not usually part of tour agencies’ itinerary but you can still get there by hopping on a tricycle from Basco Town proper. If I were to dip in its cool waters again, I’ll probably go at noon as that is when the area is at its most deserted. Slather on a lot of sunscreen and wear your sturdiest slippers as the lagoon floor is very rocky and uneven. Sadly, my flimsy sandals could not withstand all that terrain but my adventurer’s heart did. I realize that the best preparation is to welcome the unexpected.