One of the most amazing highlights from my first trip to
Bali was the diving. I spent a day at Nusa Penida diving with 10 manta rays and
another day exploring the Liberty wreck off the coast of Tulamben. I really
wanted Duncan to dive the wreck, so I called Aqua Marine Diving because they
had been 5-star on my first excursion. Diving in Bali is not just strapping a
tank on, but rather an experience. The drive north to reach sites takes you
through gorgeous countryside and the beach side cafes are little gems tucked
away. The black sand at Tulamben is breathtaking as you trek down the beach to
the entry point for the wreck. We booked in for 2 dives on the Liberty, but
plans took an unfortunate turn. Weather was causing extreme currents to shut
down the diving in that area and limit our options. After reading several
reviews we opted for Blue Lagoon, figuring if nothing else we might see some
cool macro critters.
The Aqua Marine van pulled up at 6:30 am and we climbed in.
After a stop off in Sanur we began weaving our way out of the city. The
countryside changed quickly as rice fields replaced tightly packed buildings.
We headed east and the sea came into view. Mountains rose out of the fields to
the west of us and the beauty of Bali began to shine. It is sometimes difficult
to find the beauty because there is a lot of trash and pollution, but it never
relents and is there for those who look past the exterior flaws. I explained
this to Duncan as we walked down the street in Nusa Dua and found a carved
elephant that was overrun with vines and trash. If you looked close though, you
could see the intricate detail of the carving and appreciate the craftsmanship.
As we approached Padangbai the left side of the road was
lined with trucks, all stuffed full with fruit, vegetables, building supplies
and all sorts of random things. There must have been at least 150 trucks pulled
over with their drivers playing cards, napping, eating and just killing time.
Upon asking we were informed that weather had shut down all ferries and vessels
going to Lombok. The weather was definitely worse than we had realized,
considering the cargo ferries are pretty large. Crossing the Lombok straight
can be dangerous and apparently they had lost a few vessels in recent months
and were being overly cautious. The men driving the trucks would have to wait
hours or even days until the block was lifted. Can you imagine telling a truck
driver in the states that he had to just chill and wait with no air conditioned
cabin, hotel room or meal in a restaurant? It is a different world.
Padangbai is a small village on the east coast of Bali. The hostels
and cafes that line the shore have a surfer vibe and laid-back atmosphere. We
were dropped at the same café I visited on my previous dive excursion. The
walls were decorated with signs and shells; palm trees and plants provided a
lush backdrop and cats snuck around the tables looking for a treat. We enjoyed
our free coffee and waited for the gear to be loaded on the boat. We chatted with
a girl visiting from Australia who was trying to get to Lombok. She loved being
stuck in Padangbai as she waited for the weather to break. She raved about the
quaint village and we sucked in all the information, plotting our next visit.
This will definitely be our choice destination next time. Diving and the beach,
not many tourists; perfect!
Our dive guide called us to the boat and we waded out to
board. The boats are moored just off the beach and were really clean,
comfortable and fast. Our group was a mix of divers and snorkelers headed for a
day at the lagoon. We were set to do 2 dives before returning to enjoy lunch at
the café. Our first dive was
fairly shallow, as my sinuses were aching and I didn’t want to push it. In hindsight, the three weeks sinus
infection, strep throat and fever that followed was probably not worth the
diving. Ah well. We enjoyed massive schools of fish. It is incredible to see
such healthy fish populations decorating the watery landscape. There are very
few places in the world that populations are as dense as they are in Indonesia.
The coral was not overly rich, but we did enjoy the largest field of stag horn
coral that I have seen in a long time. Sad that coral fields as far as the eye
can see are a rare treat in most parts of the world. Our guide rushed us a long a bit, but I wanted to sit and
watch the sweet lips. They are one of my absolute favorite fish and I don’t get
much time with them. They have amazing faces and if you are patient you can
often catch a cleaning station.
We moved along, exploring the crevices and finding
nudibranchs, clown fish and other tiny treasures before returning to the boat.
Our sixty-minute dive was relaxing and beautiful. We spent our surface interval
chatting with some of the other guests and our guides, while enjoying the lush
mountains exploding up from the sea. We could also see the massive volcano in
the distance. Such a wild and rugged place when you remove the people and
buildings that cover the shoreline. I like to think about places when the first
explorers arrived by boat, that sense of raw wilderness and the excitement of
exploration through lands unknown to the wayward travelers. Like anything, we
sometimes miss our own experience until we are able to step outside of it. I
wonder if the Balinese people realize what they have? Difficult sometimes when
you put your head down to work and survive. I feel extremely fortunate every
time I am able to get lost in a new world and immerse myself in the sights,
sounds, smells and the sea.
Our next dive was probably one of the more bizarre that I
have had in my experience of the underwater world. There is a massive submarine
that takes tourists around the lagoon and it can be seen from various dive
points, as it passes. We could
hear the loud thud, thud, thud and whir of the propeller long before the white
ghost came into view. The visibility was not excellent, so the submarine was
very eerie as it moved in and out of our sights. Our guide kept trying to get
us to see it, but we were over it the after the first encounter. It rides
around in a deep area with no real life or structure. I felt like I was in an
episode of Scooby-Doo crossed with a Clive Cussler novel. I am still
struggling to get my head around it.
We found more nudibranchs and a black ribbon eel. The ribbon
eels are so small and so animated. I could watch them for hours and was excited
for Duncan to see his first one. Our guide disappeared as we hovered above the
tiny creature. I got lost following 6 Moorish idols (like Gil from Finding Nemo) and again when I encountered
an anemone filled with panda clownfish. I could watch clownfish all day. Their
little faces are so cute and they have so much spunk. I find myself giggling
and giving off a little squeal every time I see them. Yes, I am a dork, but I
am completely okay with that.
We returned to the beach and found our way back to the café.
Lunch was served as we sat down and we grabbed a couple of Bintangs to wash it
down; nothing like an ice-cold beer after a dive. We settled into the back seat
of the van for the ride home. It is nearly impossible for me to stay awake,
post compressed air, ocean, sun and beer. I think I made it about 20 minutes
into the ride trying to force my eyes open, not wanting to miss the countryside
as it slipped past.
Blue Lagoon is good for easy diving and the schools of fish
are amazing. Macro critters are a highlight and the surface interval provides
and incredible view. Aqua Marine is a great operation and the price is very
reasonable for what you get. I would recommend the Liberty Wreck and will
definitely make the trek back to dive it again!
