Through the incense fumes

Bags packed. Alright, bags and baggage. Overpacked. Mum and I embarked upon our trip to the mighty mountains. Our first stop - Delhi; note to readers - do not under-estimate the size of the city/the traffic. After having a very close shave, we finally boarded our train to Haridwar and secretly thanked our stars for the harmless inefficiencies of the Indian railways!

We then proceeded on an hour long drive, through highways, forests and bustling markets to finally reach our destination – Rishikesh. While in the city, you can’t help but indulge in people-watching. It was hard to miss the Shiva (a Hindu God) look-alikes, herds of tourist groups easily spotted by their travel-agent sponsored leopard-printed sarongs/scrafs, forigeners with dread-locks and psychadelic t-shirts. It felt like we were witness to one big fancy dress party in which we were the minority, who didn’t get the memo!

With the afternoon well-spent, exploring unassuming restaurants and sampling the street food, we headed towards the evening aarti (religious ceremony) to ‘Parmarth Niketan Ashram’. It was hard to miss the ashram as it was crowned by a dramatic statue of a horse drawn chariot and was the only one with a steadily swelling crowd. We arrived to a gathering of over a hundred people and immediately noticed that the banks of the Ganges had suddenly been engulfed in saffron hues; adorned by priests, disciples and tourists alike. The experience was surreal. Sitting on the steps of the ashram, in the midst of strangers and incense, feeling at home. There were bhajans as well as some suprisingly upbeat devotional songs being sung against the backdrop of a large meditating Shiva statue. This was followed by the floating of arati bowls, said to be sacred offerings to the ganges. The river was soon spotted with little flames, that had been set afloat with earnest prayers only to be consumed by rapid currents.

Rishikesh brought forth a montage of beautiful people, landscapes, colours and moods along with an effortless air of calm amidst the chaotic bustle of people, prayers and the much revered, cattle.

Personally, the city has etched itself as a collage of aspiring actors, flirtatious swamijis, mesmerising, incense-filled aartis, bustling markets, leopard printed scarves, saffron engulfed banks and piping hot chai. However, it is its in-your-face yet mysterious quality that has quite suitably earned itself the title of, ‘Gateway to the Himalayas’.

Traveller Tips:

a. Do not compromise on a room with air-conditioning
especially if you plan your trip during/around summer.
b. Rishikesh is predomenently a vegetarian city.
c. Share-auto’s are the most easily available form of transport.
They’re comfortable and safe.
d. Wear comfortable footwear that can be removed easily, as
the city is best seen on foot and all ashrams along the ghats
require you to remove your footwear.
e. Rishikesh boasts of world class white water rafting, rock
climbing, kayaking and trekking experiences. Adventure
sports enthusiasts, ensure that you plan your trip during the
season (March to June), to make the most of it!