Beyond the wildlife on the Galapagos

The sea lions annoyed me. Their constant barking, their consistent presence on roads, paths, even in classrooms! Surprisingly, even snorkeling with them, and the sharks, rays, colorful fish, and turtles, had lost its magic. I had seen the famous Galapagos wildlife, and I was over it.

I’d fly by the ‘Esquina Caliente’ on my bike on my way to work, barely giving a quick wave to whoever was lounging at the crossroads of the main street, the pedestrian boardwalk, and the entry for the passenger pier. I never stopped at this little ‘hot corner’ until I passed on foot one day and a friend seated there invited me for a beer. The sun was heavy and my frustrating workday still sat on my shoulders. A cold beer and hearty laugh were just what I needed.

Within three minutes of my arrival, I knew I’d discovered a treasure on San Cristóbal island overlooked by visitors focused on the animals and plants found only on this archipelago. This corner wasn’t a hotbed of wildlife action, but it sure was one of human life.

I’d unknowingly nabbed front row seats to a show of real Galapagos life. Three worn tables the size of chess boards, accompanied by three-legged stools as wobbly as the drunks who sometimes occupy them, serve as the epicenter of this street corner in the center of town. Soft-serve, an Internet cafe, a convenience store, and a hotel orbit this core of tables, creating a perfect storm of human activity.

At my inaugural visit to this ‘hot corner’, I shared beers and smiles with my friend, a naturalist guide on break from his cruise, and an aging hotel owner pontificating about a proposal for a new luxury hotel. The next day I traded gossip with the couple that owns the local nightspot between licks of a melting chocolate cone. A few nights later I giggled for an entertaining few minutes with a group of university students – both locals and visiting international students - witnessing a powerful cultural exchange, facilitated by boxes (yes, boxes) of wine from the corner store.

One would be forgiven for not initially noticing this corner, distracted by the piles of sea lions across (or in) the road, or the boats in the bay, or the brilliant sunset. At one of your passings, however, you will likely be offered something to share; a cold beer, a dripping ice cream. My advice: say yes and take what’s offered. Sit and listen and chat and watch for a while, you’ll be blessed with a view that goes far beyond the majestic wildlife. I wish I’d done it sooner.