Rajasthani Dreams

After many weeks traversing India my anticipation grew as I approached the desert oasis of Jaisalamer. I had heard and read lots about Jaisalmer, about its beauty, its magnificent fort, the surrounding sand dunes, and the friendliness of its people, but nothing could prepare me for the great time I was about to have in this the Golden City. Jaisalmer’s glorious fort sits proudly on Trikuta Hill in the old city, built in 1156 by the Bhatti Rajputs it is the most beautiful fort in all Rajasthan. The fort is home to many of Jaisalmer’s locals. It’s so extensive that markets, hotels, exceptional havelis and temples can all be found within its walls or, they exist as part of the fort structure itself. Guests can stay in rooms that are part and parcel of the fort, that have splendid views across the old city and out into the desert. The fort’s ramparts are superbly decorated with intricate carvings in yellow sandstone patterns that reveal a time long ago when artisans were truly masters of their trade.

Many days can be whiled away in Jaisalmer, sitting on rooftop restaurants, sipping beers, eating delectable curries, admiring the views. The pace of life in Jaisalmer is considerably slower to that of the cities further east, that is until you start enquiring about going on a camel safari. Bad move! However, camel safaris are the essence of Jaisalmer and every booking office is desperate for your patronage.

The best advice when booking is to make sure that everything you think you have paid for is included in the receipt, and ensure there is enough water to allow for the time you will spend in the desert. Some operators don’t include any water in the price and insist you bring your own, bringing some extra of your own is a good idea regardless, but heading out into the desert with a safari group without water is a bad idea.

There is no denying that riding a camel is an uncomfortable experience, a few hours later as sunset approached my guides made camp in the isolated dunes. I took the opportunity to wander off onto the ridge of a nearby dune to take photos and to absorb the peace and beauty of the desert environment. The sun was a brilliant red, so large it seemed to fill the sky. The dunes changed colors, from burning reds to deep purples and finally to soft dusty pinks, it was an orchestra of color and light. Soon millions of stars twinkled in the crystal clear desert sky. I made my way back to camp where the boys had cooked a vegetable curry and some chapattis. After our meal I talked to my guides before heading off to bed, sleeping under the stars that night was very enjoyable and extremely peaceful. My head full of colorful Rajasthani dreams.