Someone once said that drivers in India purchase a separate battery just for their horn. And that beggar women rent a new dirty baby every few weeks to keep the hustle less recognizable. Some visitors harden their heart while the more compassionate stay busy giving away their money. This is Pahar Ganj, market district and way-station for some of the most bohemian dharma bums on the planet. I'll write more later, I've got to put a saddle on a rat and ride it to the chai stand.