Beyond Rangoon - An Insight into a Silent Country

Beyond Rangoon – the title of a book I once read has been etched in my mind for years. This country, silenced by its rulers is an enigma wrapped in a mystery. I had many myths to debunk and a culture to explore as I boarded my plane to Myanmar this January. Arriving in Myanmar I was filled with apprehension about being politically correct. An educationist would hardly be welcomed in the tightly guarded land. As my host, a graduate of Imperial College London, greeted me with a warm hug I felt a net of safety dawn on me.

The local scene was evident in the airport waiting lounge with men in ‘lonjis’ and women in the national sarong skirt. People of all ages stood ready to welcome their visitors. What intrigued me was the yellow paste on many a smiling face. This is an interesting element of culture. The paste made from the bark of a local tree works as an antiseptic and sun-block.
I was amazed at the humility and grace of the people throughout my interactions. From the trained hotel staff to the street vendors, everyone welcomed the foreigner even without her dollars. Dressed smartly, most of them were of humble origins but very friendly and social. The hard work ethic and value system is evident in each trade I came across.

My journey to Mandalay left me speechless. There is miles of dense jungle stretched out between the two cities. My British colleague mentioned her grandfather has taken refuge in the jungle during the war with the Japanese. In fact, to date Britain acknowledges the debt it owes the Myanmar people for their assistance in the war. Decades have passed but the jungle still has deep and dark stories to reveal about man and his cruelty.

The mighty Irrawady River lay open to welcome us as we drove through Mandalay. Our 6 am walk down the moat led us to the 200 year old palace which is a testimony to the skill of the people. The Mandalay Hill is a symbol of might and natural beauty nestled behind the moat. A throng of fitness fans arrived at sunrise and use the local gym equipment set along the walk way. We soon headed out after our walk to have a discerningly tropical breakfast. Sweet orange papaya, giant pomelos and banana cake with sesame. Street food is a big deal in Myanmar. From the night market to the wholesale hub, food is everywhere and it’s delicious.

Rather than spending time at the Pagoda’s we decided to visit the night market. Vendors of fruits and vegetables laid their colorful wares for sale. Sampling, weighing, and the deal of the day is what the night market is all about. The vibrant night market was lush with its own sights and sounds. The local flavor reflects in the adverts on the billboards, the carts, piles of clothing and even the brass monger. Myanmar is a secluded land that revives the spirit of a traveler. Jaisu timbare!