Knowing that when you live in a city, your rarely get round to doing all the amazing things it has to offer, i had planned my trip so that i would arrive a week early and get all my tourist things well under way - it has to be said, i've been doing pretty well.
Kowloon park was my first stop, which is literally minutes from where i am staying. It's a beautiful green oasis in the centre of chaos and has a wonderful mix of exotic wildlife and sculptures and peaceful gardens. I went to the Exhibition house to see the exhibit of childrens' architecture which was intended to get people thinging about modernisation. every model had a phrase written in both Cantonese and English, such as: 'modern is not the replacement of tradition, but the re-vision of existence'. Afterwards i called my friend and housemate from university, Jana, who currently lives in Hong Kong. Her father is the German Consul General in Hong Kong (which i learned is the equivalent ofbeing an ambassador in a non-capital city), and i was to stay with her over the weekend at their home. We arranged to meet later in the day and so i spent my morning and early afternoon exploring the harbour. I walked along the promenade and took in the beautiful view of the island skyline across the water from me. I walked along the Avenue of Stars (the the cheesy crooning of the likes of Michael Bolton and Mariah Carey), which is the equivalent of Hollywood's 'Walk of Fame', which pays tribute to Chinese artists involved in film, and managed to spot Jet Li's star. I caught the MTR over to the island-side to meet Jana, and we headed up to her dad's office to say hello and drop off some things she had brought for him. Fom his office there is an amazing view of the mainland and also of the city below. After discussing our plans we left and caught the tram to one of the markets nearby. I was greatly distressed at the 'fresh' market, where the fish are still frantically flopping about in baskets, and the shrimp are jumping out of theirs and into the street! We then went to see the Central Mid-Level Escalators, which is advertised as 'the longest escalator in the wrld'. however, truth be known - it IS slightly disappointing as it is not one continuous escalator, rather a series of them. At this point Jana returned home, but determined to make the most of my day, i decided to take the Peak tram up to the top of Victoria Peak, which overlooks the city, noting in a strangely excited way that Typhoon 1 warning had been posted. Racing the sunset, i made it just in time to watch it go down, and then spent a couple of hours just soaking up the amazing sight that is the Hong Kong skyline at night. Heading back that night i walked through the business centre, surrounded by these colossal buildings and bright lights, and took the Star Ferry back to Tsim Sha Tsui, before colapsing in bed!
The following day rain was lashing down all morning, but the weather was warm, and the winds were low, so refusing to waste a day i headed out. I traveled over to the island and found my way to Jana's house, in Sham Shui Wan, which means Deep Water Bay. The house they live in is given to them for the duration of the period that her father is positioned here, and is a beautiful, beautiful house, with a stunning view of the bay. It seems that Hong Kong is a city with amazing view from most angles. Their housekeeper Nini, is lovely a Filipina woman, who chatted to me about the area and different families she worked with over the years. Jana, her mother and i had a delicious lunch together and then after consuting Nini, it was decided that it was fine to venture out, as it ws only rain and not wind that was threatening. And rain it did. It was fantastic. Jana and i were drenched withing moments of leaving the house, but happily strolled along in the warmth of the Hong Kong June weather. we walked down the mountain to the bay, and along to the next, which is deceptively called Repulse Bay. i say deceptively, because it is in fact quite beautiful, and literally means 'shallow water bay'. we sat on the steps of the pagoda, and Jana told me that it was once a pirates bay, which is easy to see as it is sheltered by a spattering of small islands. She pointed out where her house is, and the mansion below, where Li Ka Shing, the richest man in Asia, and 10th richest in the world lives. He owns the whole of the area, and so is responsible for any development. She also showed me a hotel behind where we were sitting, which sports a strangely-shaped open space in the centre. She explained that Kowloon means 'eight dragons' and when building the hotel, the space was left to allow access between the mountain and sea for these mythical creatures. We began to dry off as we walked back, and i was shattered by the time i made it to my bed. i fell asleep for the night almost instantly, and upon waking felt as though i had slept for years. thoroughly rested i showered and got changed and glanced at my watch which showed it was just after 12, and was ready to go, when i was suddenly confused by the darkness that met me as i stepped out into the walkway. after puzzling for a moment, i realised that it was THAT 12 o'clock, and that i had only slept for a few hours. it seemed the time difference had yet to settle.
The following days were equally wonderful. I visited the Chi Lin Nunnery, which was built over the course of 10 years, alegedly without a single nail. It's what you imagine Chinese temples to look like, with the winged roof-tops, and beautiful gardens. I also went to see the Wong Tai Sin temple Complex which has a beautiful Good Wish Garden, and is where worshippers gather to shake divination sticks, which are used to make predictions about your future (they are all in a container and you shake them until one falls out, note it's number and look for your prediction), and light incense. I bought some of the incense sticks, which you light, and then visit all the places which they can be planted making a wish for yourself and your family each time. After my peaceful morning, i went to the library (don't worry, no work invlved), as i figured i might be able to use the internet there for free. i was right. however i only had time to read emails, without replying, as i had to run off and meet some of the other OCEP volunteers. That night a small group of us went to dinner in a restaraunt with a view of the island, after watching the light show on the harbour. diner was wonderful, and it was lovely to get to meet some of the people i will be spending the next month with. We went for ice cream afterwards, and it seemed that everything was fine, until after i left them to return home, at which point James became very ill. The next day he was still very sick and so had to go to the hospital, where they tld him that some bacteria had obviously aggrevated his stomach and he had a bad infection, which they gave him anti biotics for. thankfuly he is ok, and apparently is prone to these kinds of stomach infections, but it makes you remember to be cautious. unaware of this until a day later, i spent the day with Jana and her family as it was her birthday. Jana, her mother, Nini and i went to Stanley for lunch, which we had in a great little spanash tapas place on the seafront. i documented the day with photos and we spent the evening walking around Wan Chai, and then going to the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, where we watched a Cantonese Opera. It was quite sensational, as it is so different from opera and theatre that we think of. The movements, acting style, voice and singing are all so different from western productions. Objetively, i think the singing is more interesting and skillfull than pleasing, as it sounds like twittering birds, and is initially quite unsettling, but it was a fantastic show called 'A Rose in a Tempest' and the colours were amazing.
Yesterday i spent the day moving my stuff from my hostel to the University (which is turns out is the BAPTIST university - what is it with me being posted with religious plcements everywhere i go?) which was entertaining in the severe humidity. I met more of the people who i willbe living with, including my room-mate alison. We watched the England-Portugal match together (what a way to kill the evening THAT was) and then i headed back to Jana's house, where i am staying until Monday. From here on it, it will be mostly work, so fear not, as these posts should become shorter!
