The Spell of Granada
The poet Francisco de Icaza once said: “Give him alms, woman, for there is nothing sadder in life than being blind in Granada” A commemorative plaque in front of me evokes his lines, it makes me feel lucky.
I walk along the little alleys of Granada; narrow streets drawn up almost like a labyrinth. I enter into an Arabic market crowded with colourful shops. A stand shows a rich variety of spices, different kinds of pepper, cumin, an intense bloodshot paprika, turmeric, chilli, curry and saffron. The colours blend together. I feel the impulse of touching these tiny red chillies, they remind me of my country. I decide to take a couple of them, maybe just for seeing them at home. The next stand has many varieties of tea; I am astonished by the beauty of their names; “Sunset in Marrakech”, “Spell of Granada”, “Tales of the Alhambra”, “Orient Express”, “Secrets of the Alhambra”. I could write a tale just using these names, imagining myself watching the Sunset in Marrakech while I read the Tales of the Alhambra. I buy 100 grams of this lyrical delight for 3€.
As soon as I leave the stand with the Spell of Granada in my pocket, I come across a tavern. I smell the characteristic scent of garlic fried with olive oil. I look at the ceiling and see lots of Iberian ham hanging all around the bar. They resemble hunting trophies. An old and robust man slices a ham on the bar. The rough and cured appearance of the pork hoofs contrasts with the delicate cuts of red ham. He puts tasteful thin slices on a piece of bread and pours a glass of red wine. For a moment, this whole image makes me forget the spices, the teas and their names.
While I walk down these alleys again, I remember the Iberian Ham, the spices and the wine in the tavern; a full gallery of blended colours and textures. I take a moment and look around. I stare at the plaque on the wall and read the verses again. There is no doubt, I am really fortunate.
