One Night Inside a Volcano My journey to the center of the earth- stars, blue fire, and an emerald crater lake.

Being awake at 2-3 AM walking into a volcano with the open sky calling out to appreciate the stars; a surreal night. My friend Alejandro and I arrived in Java, Indonesia and volcanoes were one of the off track reasons we chose this island. On this very night we were walking into Mount Ijen to watch the ‘blue flames’- a rare phenomenon, seen only in Java and Iceland. The sulfuric gases escaping from cracks ignite in contact with air, causing the blue fire, which now attracts tourists. When the gases cool down, solid sulfur is the product.
We were on the way to higher altitude to reach the peak of Kawah Ijen, and then to walk into the crater. Climbing was tough, because I was getting breathless. Panting like a dog, I glanced at the stars, tried to capture the beauty of the moment and also pushed my own mind to move ahead. I was falling behind.
With torches the guide led the group slowly down by steps in the inside of the volcano. The steps were tiny, so it helped to place our foot parallel to them, climbing down with body kept sideways. I loved this part, it felt like a fun challenge. Some hours back, few travelers who came in our car, themselves donned in boots had looked at my canvas shoes in doubt. While following those steps, my belief was reinforced; it is not about strength or the shoe, but the technique one uses- to climb and to balance oneself.
In the darkness we reached the crater area and saw the smoke and blue fire. Be ready to smell the raw egg smell when the wind blows at certain directions!

As light filtered the sky, the crater lake was now visible, its blue a brilliant emerald color, of acidic bliss. The last treat was the spectacular mountainous landscape we saw on the stroll back. The path where I was panting the night before now looked magical! Java has some amazing gems that called our adventurous spirit. From Yogyakarta these volcano tours can be booked and options are given for different prices. Combine Mount Ijen and Mount Bromo tour, with or without the blue flame midnight hike. Tours start at Yogyakarta usually and can end at the ferry station at the end of Java. You may book with any agency but eventually all tours are handled by a monopoly system. The handlers are extremely commercial and have no time to be cordial. The travel infrastructure in Java is underdeveloped and the attractions quite underrated. I got to experience the phenomenon that is Mount Ijen. On the downside, my clothes retained the sulfur smell for days!