German troops during WW I were given poems by Hoelderlin to inspire defense of the fatherland. In our final day with Critchley we study his unfinished tragic play Empedocles. Hegel, his college roommate called Hoelderlin "the beautiful soul". He wrote beautiful but impossible prose. Can't even understand my notes! But did climb up to the the shrinking glacier this morning. Learned that after Europe's 400 year mini iceage (1400-1800) this glacier threatened to take over Saas Fee. A cross was erected at the glacier's tongue by the town's people in 1803. And the glacier retreated. So miracles do happen. Maybe I'm learning something.