I find it hard to say what I liked most about San Agustín. The landscape, the history, the people, I was impressed by it all. Having arrived at night, my first impression was of the peace and beauty of the hacienda where I stayed. It was in the hills a few kilometres out of town, with beautiful gardens and very comfortable rooms. The terraces with tables, chairs and hammocks overlooking the gardens were very appealing. The uncaged macaws and parrot added a special touch.
The walk into town the next morning was pleasant, with horses, dogs and people along the roadside. The girl at the travel agency was very helpful and friendly, and we quickly organised tours for that afternoon and the next day, with a private guide called Ernesto.
San Agustín and the surrounding area is the site of amazing archaeological finds from a civilisation so mysterious that its name is unknown. The statues date from about 3300 BC to just before the Spanish conquest. There are hundreds of large statues guarding the tombs of the elite of this unnamed civilisation. The statues have human and/or animalistic characteristics, some of Asian or African animals. One theory to explain how this could be possible is that the power of the Shamans, through the use of hallucinogenic plants, enabled them to travel through space and time. There is even one statue that appears to be wearing headphones, and some scientists suggest that this signifies an alien connection. Of course there is much more to say about this beautiful, green oasis. This is where five rivers converge overlooked by three volcanoes. This may be part of the reason why this mysterious culture considered this area to be so sacred and important.
I spent that afternoon with Ernesto walking through the National Archaeological Park. It did rain for a while so we took refuge at a (conveniently placed) café/souvenir shop. It was very pleasant to sit overlooking the valley, having a beer, after three hours of walking. When the rain cleared we went on. Throughout the afternoon I had noticed several people wandering around without a guide, glancing at a statue or a tomb, taking their own photo in front of it, and then moving on to the next one. I did feel that they would have got more out of the experience if they actually had a guide and knew what they were looking at.
Although I had originally planned to spend the next day exploring the area by jeep, I was easily persuaded that a motorbike would be the best option. I met Ernesto in the town plaza at 9.00 am and off we went. I had been a bit nervous the day before, when he dropped me off on his bike at my hacienda, but today I was ready. We spent the day visiting six places with archaeological or photogenic interest: river rapids, waterfalls and archaeological sites. It was probably the most fun day of my trip so far; interesting and exciting as well.
I was sad to leave San Agustín; it is such a friendly and lovely town. I am not surprised that several foreigners have decided to make this their home. I think the tourism slogan may be right - “Colombia: the only risk is wanting to stay.”
