Life is only the trailer

'You should join us on the yatra', my father proposed. Over the last 75 years, my family’s annual tradition is the pilgrimage to Sabarimala temple in Kerela. Situated deep in the Periyar Tiger Reserve, amid lush green forests in the Western Ghats, it is easily one of India’s largest pilgrimage centers.

However, it was the pre temple rituals that seemed unfathomable to me. Wearing only black clothes, refraining from non-vegetarian food, alcohol, tobacco, engaging in sex (even the thought of it), and growing out all bodily hair - a very tall order for a maturing young adult let’s say, and all this for 41 days! As I stumbled after the 20th day, I discovered my love for food was my only solace.

The rickety bus ride from Cochin airport was mesmerizing, the mountain ranges perfumed with tea, coffee and spices. Our evening snack was in the village of Mundakkayam, a scrumptious serving of steamed rice cakes with coconut and lentil gravy (Puttu-Kadala). We bathed in the Manimala River and chanted our prayers, as the air was filled with burning camphor and incense sticks. I felt calm yet lucid as we ascended the mountain. It took me 3 hours to scale the 12km hill. Due to the acclivity, we halted at the tea stalls on the way. The elders narrated stories of their encounters with wild elephants, and of crossing tiger trails, praising the local chieftain on his development of the hill, which had earlier been almost impregnable.

Everyone carries a bundle on their head, in two parts. The first at the front of the head, known as Irumudi, containing offerings to the Lord which consists mainly of pure ghee filled in the hollow of a coconut after draining out its water contents. The second part hanging on the shoulders containing personal effects like food and a set of clothes. As we approached the Golden Steps I was drawn in to the sanctum sanctorum by a sea of devotees. I gazed upon the statue of Ayyappa offering my prayers and thanks I felt at peace, blessed even.

As my father and I descended the hill on the next day, I told him that this idiosyncratic backpack tour, though I carried the pack on my head, was the most humbling experience I ever had. I felt a sense of accomplishment when we reached the Pampa River. I desperately needed a shave but all I could think of was my next delicious meal!

I was grateful I obliged to take the trip. Probably because it had restored a sense of discipline in my life that I never knew was lacking.

Swamiye Sharanam Ayyapa.