Unseen Africa

I had been on the road from Johannesburg to Nairobi for little under two weeks but the effect on me had been profound. Borne by a converted lorry, we made our way through the entangled mesh of cultures and peoples that inhabited this well-trod trail. Arriving at Kande Beach on the shores of Lake Malawi, I was immediately drawn to the rustic opulence of life upon these shores. Every morning the locals would dive into the lush green surf and breakfast upon golden bananas. Application of the when in Rome adage mirrored my day with theirs and I savoured waking up to a plunge in the large emerald expanse. Not content with relaxation, I decided to head off the beaten track and was met with my first introduction into Malawi culture. Local customs required dress that covered much of the body and I complied as best I could. I stumbled into a village that typified Africa, with Coca-Cola and washing powder adverts adorning the walls of most of the buildings. I was quickly spotted and suddenly it was as though the buildings were coming into bloom, as people emerged from every doorway. I was greeted with cheers of Mzungu, a local word for a white man, and ushered into what appeared to be the house of a prominent man in the village. Inside, there was a mass of photographs and ornaments and it was pervaded with a musty smell of dried earth and wood. It appeared as if lunch had been prepared and was invited, through vivid gesturing, to join in. Not much was said, but it wasn’t necessary, both parties knew that they were enjoying every mouthful of the spiced chicken, and the time spent together. Once appetites had been sated, I was directed to a room and greeted, like a great orator, by many expectant faces. There was a movie, Indiana Jones, in a state of pause and I realized that as the guest my presence was required. The significance of the moment then struck me and I realized that culture didn’t have to mean separation. Here we were, culturally different, but also much the same.