Agios Nikolaos, Crete

My first experience of Cretan and Greek culture was in the town of Agios Nikolaos on the northern coast of Crete with my family. If one were to conjure up an image of a Greek town, Agios Nikolaos would tick all the boxes; pure white sun bleached spítia with terracotta roof tiles, small fishing boats bobbing on crystal-clear, electric blue water and the omnipresent aroma of Cretan cuisine. I immediately assumed that the town would be quite hushed and moving along at its own leisurely pace. Ambling down a narrow street towards the centre of town - a natural harbour - it became apparent that Agios Nikolaos was far from 'sleepy'. The streets were bustling yet simultaneously relaxing- with people conversing in various languages from Greek to Dutch and Spanish. Given that I was my family’s go-to Greek translator it fell to me to try to converse in the quaint and colourful shops - including a beautiful watch shop where a Georgian woman switched between Greek, Georgian and Russian without pause. I was in awe if not a little lost!

The cobbled main street was punctuated with small tavernas and kafeneíos, where the older Greek men and women sat drinking their strong, sweet coffee watching the world float fashionably by in the bouzouki-music filled atmosphere. The smell of souvláki and gíros poured out of a restaurant. It was definitely time for lunch - for fresh seafood, lamb falling off the bone, feta-filled salads and the traditional Mythos beer.

Shockingly, the place was empty apart from ourselves. We began talking with the owner of the restaurant, and what struck me most was his openness about how business was going. He talked about the failing economy and the future of Greece; how he had struggled through the past few years and how all-inclusive establishments had impacted upon family businesses like his, saying many people only come to Crete for the sun and the all-you-can-eat buffets, not to experience the culture, history and people -- and all this was said with a bright, stoic smile. And after pouring out his political heart he presented us with a hearty bowl of doughnut-like pastries covered in honey and pistachios, free of charge.

The irony of being in such a beautiful place with so much turmoil is not lost on me - and yet it's the warmth and generosity which has grabbed hold of me like no other place has before.